tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-67550339117503110372024-03-11T00:35:35.990-07:00Kanti KraftsProviding step by step tutorials for costume accessories and custom made crafts for a fair price~Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.comBlogger20125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-18383001357584769512014-01-04T14:06:00.000-08:002014-01-04T14:06:08.340-08:00Payday 2: The Heist Masks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hello everyone, today I'm going to be showing off of my new Payday 2 masks! I had made these a couple months ago and managed to do an amateur photo shoot and take some behind the scenes pictures of the actual manufacturing process. I won't go into much detail about how to make them mainly because I didn't fully document the entire process and the mechanics are essentially the same as my Majora's Mask one-part mold tutorial, so if you're interested in that, you can find it <a href="http://kantikane.blogspot.com/2012/04/how-to-make-one-part-molds.html" target="_blank">here</a>. <br />
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If you're interested in owning your own, you can find them for sale on my <a href="http://etsy.com/shop/KantiKane" target="_blank">etsy store</a>. <br />
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So without further adieu, let's get into the photos:<br />
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These are from the photoshoot with only the Wolf and Hoxton masks. Sorry for the terrible lighting :/<br />
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Now for a closer look at the masks themselves:</h2>
Here are some photos of the completed masks and how they look when finished and tinted.<br />
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The masks themselves are made from several layers of very durable cast resin and hand-painted with resin paints.<br />
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These following shots are of the sculpts made for the masks themselves. These were done using an armature and then sculpting over it with MonsterMakers clay.</div>
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Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-27621896994961721282013-02-17T00:28:00.001-08:002013-02-17T00:28:33.734-08:00UpdatesHey guys I know it's been a while but I have a couple new things I'm going to be introducing and hopefully they'll be cool things everyone will find useful and stuff.<br />
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Anyway, the first thing I'd like to announce is that I will be holding a couple Kickstarter events in the near future. I will be doing some major re-hauls on my previous stuff in order to make them more durable, lightweight, etc. Anyway, I'll be announcing the Kickstarters via my Youtube and Facebook as well as on here so if you're interested just keep an eye out.<br />
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Another thing I've been working on is my Youtube page itself. I will be making at least ONE video a week from now on, hopefully more but for now let's just say one. Last week I sh*t out a bunch of videos about mermaid tail how-tos and information so if you're interested in that stuff go ahead and check out my channel and look for the mermaid playlist.<br />
Remember the external website links are right over there for your convenience ----><br />
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And finally, I have created a Livestream account for myself and I plan on streaming a LOT of stuff. Mostly just me while I'm working on stuff, so if you're interested in knowing how I do stuff you can give it a look. I'll also be available to answer questions directly so it's a nice touch.<br />
Right now I don't have a schedule for my Livestream but I'll be posting it on the page's description once I decide to work it out. I also don't have any events planned but I imagine if I do it'll be something huge like a project and I'll schedule the dates accordingly.<br />
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I'm not ever sure if people actually read these things, so I'll be publishing everything to my facebook as well. I just like my blog better so you guys who actually stick around and read the stuff I post on here get the heads up before everyone else.<br />
Good for you! Facebook is mainstream anyways.Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-28392820415225750632012-06-11T12:18:00.001-07:002012-06-15T19:38:43.576-07:00Hooved Shoes - Finally for sale!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Bout time!<br />
Basically all I can say for now, they're finally for sale!<br />
If you're interested, check out my <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/101865866/hooved-shoes">etsy</a><br />
If you'd like to see a video of these hooves, check my <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrwZ2nh4fM8&feature=plcp">youtube </a><br />
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Anyway some details on these new hooves: <br />
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- They're made from a very durable epoxy that is not only wear-proof, waterproof, and shatterproof, but it makes that great clacking noise my first ones made<br />
- These new hooves are much more lightweight and easier to walk in<br />
- They're sculpted better to support your foot and prevent rolling backwards and falling in them <br />
- They're molded, so every hoof you get will look exactly as the ones pictured<br />
- I will be releasing several styles and new hoof designs fairly soon<br />
- You can submit a pair of heels that I can use in the shoes to discount your price and to ensure that they will fit you just as you'd like them to<br />
- I will soon have several material options available<br />
- Custom painting is free of charge<br />
- Each hoof is sculpted DIRECTLY onto the heel for the best available attachment and a permanent bond rather than gluing them on afterwards<br />
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<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
Old pair vs New pair</h4>
<span style="font-weight: normal;">Just a quick overview of what's improved in terms of old vs new.</span><br />
<br />
<b>Old Hooves</b><br />
Pros:<br />
<b>- </b>Realistic look, very slender<br />
- Arc support<br />
- Large hoof - asthetic purposes<br />
- Clacking noise that immitates real hooves<br />
- Waterproof<br />
- Shatterproof<br />
- Durable<br />
<br />
Cons:<br />
- Very heavy hooves, walking is strained after a few hours<br />
- Must be very cautious with use due to weight<br />
- Cannot walk offroad very well, paved areas needed<br />
- Bottoms of shoes wear and crack after extended use<br />
- Cannot run in shoes<br />
- Large hoof, makes balance a bit more difficult, inhibits movement<br />
- *Rollback problems<br />
<br />
<b>New Hooves</b><br />
Pros:<br />
<b>-</b> Realistic look, very slender<br />
- Arc support<br />
- Smaller hoof, easier balance<br />
- Lots of *rollback prevention <br />
- Very lightweight<br />
- Extremely durable<br />
- Shatterproof<br />
- Waterproof<br />
- Highly wear resistant<br />
- Clacking noise immitates real hooves<br />
- Hooves molded directly onto shoe for a more stable bond<br />
<br />
Cons:<br />
- Must use caution when in tiled areas, minimal friction<br />
- Must use caution when walking on uneven surfaces<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
*Rollback - since there is nothing supporting the back of the shoe since there are no heels, shoes with their heels removed will always have a problem with rolling backwards, basically due to the fact that there is a lot of area of your feet that is being suspended in the air over the back.<br />
This is why many people install wood sticks or metal poles to protrude behind the shoes to make walking easier and prevent the rollback.Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-23236960088381443522012-06-01T11:31:00.000-07:002012-06-15T19:38:09.500-07:00FAQ About Realistic Full-Silicone Mermaid Tails - Pre-Tutorial<br />
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Hey guys, I'm planning on releasing a Full-Silicone Mermaid tutorial fairly soon, but I just wanted to answer some questions about materials and silicone that people seem to have and don't get answered very often. I know it's not a tutorial, but it's some very useful information that may come in handy to those of you who are trying to make a mermaid tail but don't know where to start.<b><br /></b><br />
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<h4 style="font-weight: normal;">
FAQ Materials:</h4>
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<h2>
<b>What type of silicone to use?</b></h2>
-There are lots on the market but I think Smooth-on's DragonSkin is probably the best to go with simply because I've seen the most information about it and Smooth-on has many distributors around as well as staff members who are great at answering questions. Whichever you decide to choose, you MUST USE PLATINUM CURE SILICONE!<br />
<b><br /></b><br />
<h2>
<b>What is platinum cure silicone and why do I care?</b></h2>
- Platinum cure silicone is silicone that is SKIN SAFE. It's vital that you make sure you get ahold of platinum cure silicone or else you may develop skin complications from over-exposure to an unsafe material. The other option, tin-cure silicone is unsafe for prolonged skin contact.<br />
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<h2>
<b>Dragonskin has lots of numbers and types? Which to use?</b></h2>
-Dragonskin comes in many grades with many numbers. The numbers: for example: Dragonskin10, Dragonskin20, etc. All tell you how hard the silicone is.<br />
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^This is a scale used to read the hardness, Dragonskin is in shoreA.<br />
Dragonskin10 doesn't seem hard enough, but it is. You have to remember the Dragonskin will be against your skin and you'll be stretching it a lot. The harder the Dragonskin gets, the less stretchy it becomes, so Dragonskin10 is probably the best choice.<br />
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^This is a chart that compares all the qualitites of Dragonskin silicones<br />
Dragonskin10 is a great choice because it comes in 3 working times: Slow, Medium, and Fast. This allows you to choose howmuch working time you will have with the silicone before it cures. Medium is generally the best, since it allows you ample time to work with it, even if you're a beginner.<br />
Dragonskin10 also gets the best of both worlds. It's soft, which is great, but it is also very durable. Dragonskin10 has the best properties in terms of stretch, durability, and softness, so it is highly recommended.<br />
***Dragonskin FX Pro is another type of Dragonskin that can be used for mermaid tails. However, it is a bit more difficult to use since it has a much shorter working time. I managed to speak to a Smooth-on tech about FX Pro and he said that FXPro has amazing flexibility so it follows the skin a lot better, but it is less durable than Dragonskin 10. So really, depending on what you plan on using your tail for will highly contribute to which type may be best for you.<br />
<i>A special thanks shout out to <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Merman-Jesse/186489051407746" target="_blank">Merman Jesse</a> who told me to also consider FXPro</i><br />
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<h2>
<b>That chart you posted is a little weird. What does everything mean?</b></h2>
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Well let's take a look at it again<br />
-I may seem like a total Smooth-on nerd but that's because I love the fact that they post these charts for every product they have. It really helps you compare product A to product B in what you're trying to use it for. Anyway:<br />
<b>A:B Mix Ratio</b> is the ratio you need to mix parts A and B. Everything Smooth-on sells usually comes with 2 parts that have to be mixed together in order to begin the curing process. So a 1:1 or 1-to-1 ratio basically tells you that parts A and B are mixed evenly. Something like 1:2 would mean partA requires only 1 while partB requires 2. So for example, if I measure out 30cups for partA I would need 60cups for partB to achieve the proper ratio. Simple math, really. You don't have to worry about that since Dragonskin is always 1:1. BY VOLUME means that you measure it out by volume rather<br />
than weight. So you'd use measurements like cups, tablespoons, etc. rather than ounces, pounds, or grams.<br />
<b>Demold Time</b> is the time the mixture takes to FULL CURE. This means that after both parts are mixed and distrubuted into your mold, the demold time is the time it will take before you can remove the product from the mold. You can think of it as a "fully cure" time.<br />
<b>Elongation at Break</b> is the amount of stretch the material can withstand before breaking apart. Usually, the harder a material is, the less it can stretch. So in this example, Dragonskin 10 can stretch to 1000%(10 times) it's original length before breaking.<br />
<b>Mixed Viscosity</b> is essentially how thick the product becomes once parts A and B are combined. I don't really know how to read this off the chart, but the higher the number is, the thicker your mixture is. I THINK numbers below 4000cps must be poured into molds. Just a guess<br />
<b>Pot Life</b> is the amount of working time you have with a product once both parts are combined together. This time is very important because it demonstrates the amount of time you will have to work. Usually for Dragonskin (which needs molds to work, anyway) it's not such a big deal, but giving yourself a long working time is always good just incase something goes wrong. Pot life can be translated into the amount of time you have to work with your material before it becomes too cured to maneuver anymore.<br />
<i>A special thanks shoutout to <a href="http://www.facebook.com/MermaidLorelei?ref=ts" target="_blank">Mermaid Lorelei</a></i> who suggested that freezing the mixed silicone is a way to extend the pot life. So just incase you mix more than you're going to use, you can potentially use it later by tossing it in the freezer.<br />
<b>Shore Hardness</b> is the hardness of the material once cured. This is sometimes hard to grasp since the measurements on the scale are things like gummy bears and shopping cart wheels. For a mermaid tail, you generally won't need anything over 10. Silicone rubber is usually measured in shoreA.<b> </b><br />
<b>Tear Strength</b> is the amount of abuse a material can take before beginning to tear. The lower the number, the less abuse. It's a bit confusing when you compare it to elongation at break, but think of it this way: the amount of stretch you can get out of your jeans before they tear is different than the amount of wear they can take before a hole tears in them.<br />
<b>Weight</b> is a weird measure, I don't really understand it, but I'll take a guess. The measure is in CU.IN/LB = cubic inches per pound, so my guess is that the measure given is the WEIGHT the material can support. So for Dragonskin10, it's 25.8 lbs per square inch. I have no idea.. Lol<br />
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<h2>
<b>How much to use?</b></h2>
- Generally you'd want to use at least 2 gallons of Dragonskin. TECHNICALLY SPEAKING when you buy the 1 gallon measure of Dragonskinyou're actually getting 2 gallons (1 gallon each, part A and B) so by 2 gallons I really mean 2 "gallon orders" in according to Smooth-on, which is actually 4 gallons. Your fluke is going to eat up a lot of silicone, so you have to consider that. Probably a good idea is to save an entire gallon for your fluke so you don't end up having a half-finished fluke after casting your scales.<br />
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<h2>
<b>How do I paint silicone?</b></h2>
- Smooth-on sells a silicone paint base called Psycho Paint which is an absolute ripoff in my opinion, but if you have a lot of money and are very meticulous about making everything perfect you should consider it. Painting silicone is literally impossible with regular paint since not much can stick to cured silicone, so your best option is to mix pigment or paint into part B dragonskin, then mix parts A and B together, water it down a bit to reduce the viscosity, then run it through an airbrush or paint it directly on with a paintbrush. Powdered pigments are generally better to mix into silicone. You can mix acrylic paint, glass paint, floral paint, etc. but the thicker the paint, the more likely it is to interfere with the silicone properties.<br />
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<h2>
<b>How do I work with silicone?</b></h2>
-Dragonskin silicone is very runny, so you can't exactly sculpt or maneuver it very well. Molds will need to be made in order to shape it. When it comes to making a mold for Dragonskin, you can use ANYTHING, even Dragonskin.<br />
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<h2>
<b>How much does Dragonskin cost?</b></h2>
- All Dragonskin silicone costs the same: $183.72 per "gallon" (actually 2 gallons).<br />
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<h2>
<b>What are the advantages to making my own tail?</b></h2>
-Making your own tail may seem daunting at first, but a lot of the work is mainly mold making, so errors can be spotted far ahead of time before you even touch any Dragonskin. Making your own tail not only saves you money, but it allows you to be artistic, to design and make a tail that is fit just for you. It is a LOT of work, I don't want it to sound like it's easy, because it is very hard and time consuming. However, the reward of being able to tell someone you make a tail yourself is great, not<br />
to mention you cut out potential risks of tailmakers messing up your measurements, etc.<br />
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<h2>
<b>How much would I save by making a tail myself vs purchasing one from someone?</b></h2>
- The main concern with pricing a silicone tail is the fact that there is a lot of time put into making it. So if you have absolutely no free time, you may have no choice in purchasing a tail, however, if you start early and tackle the process one day at a time, you can work to your ability. Charging yourself for your time is essential and is also what others base their price off of, so it's very important to consider.<br />
Here is a cost estimate of the tail-making process when using the following materials:<br />
$367.44 - 2 gallon units of DragonSkin (actual tail material)<br />
$138.18 - 20 lbs Alja-Safe Alginate (leg mold)<br />
$35.00 - Fiberglass resin (casting legs)<br />
$64.41 - gallon unit of ShellShock (plastic mold making material)<br />
$46.31 - pint unit of Psycho Paint (silicone paint base)<br />
$47.50 - 2 units of 5lb Monster Clay (sculpting)<br />
$10.79 - paper cutter punch (shaping scales)<br />
$30.00 - estimate cost (wood used in mold box)<br />
$100.00 - random decoration/tool budget<br />
<u>$100.00 - shipping estimate </u> <br />
$939.63 = PROJECT TOTAL<br />
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As you can see, even with all the extra costs added in that may not even apply or be needed, the cost to make this tail is still less than $1,000 whereas many tailmakers charge $2,000 or more. Not to mention, these materials are used for the very first time when making a tail. Once you have your leg mold, scale mold, and fluke mold finished, you will never need to purchase those materials again and it will cost you only the price of the Dragonskin and decoration costs to make another tail, dropping<br />
the price down to around only $500.<br />
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<h2>
<b>Where can I get Dragonskin?</b></h2>
- You can obtain Dragonskin straight through Smooth-on, but generally it's a good idea to find out if there's a distributor near your area so maybe you can drop by and get some in person to avoid those annoying shipping fees. Smooth-on has a list of their distributors on their website: http://www.smooth-on.com/ and they generally don't charge any more or less than Smooth-on themselves so it's usually better to find a distributor closer to you for shorter shipping time and cheaper shipping in general.<br />
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<h2>
<b>What's a good mold material?</b></h2>
- Mermaid tails are comprised of many different parts. Making molds for them is difficult because you sometimes need several different materials. Regular molds usually include a silicone layer to capture detail with a hard "shell" backing to support the silicone and keep it from flopping around. When making a large scale sheet, you probably aren't going to want to make a shell backing that large, since it'll be difficult to move around and match up to your silicone layer. Liquid plastic is great because it can be poured over your scales and capture detail while also drying stiff and rigid so it cancels the need for a backing. Special thanks shoutout to Mermaid Lorelei and Dr.Seaweed who used liquid plastic for scale molds<br />
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<h2>
<b>What do I make scales and flukes out of?</b></h2>
- When making molds, it's generally a good idea to use oil-based clay as your original sculpture since it's sulfur-free. I don't really know what the big deal with sulfur is but I think it interferes with the curing of certain silicones so it's best to avoid it altogether. Super sculpey is sulfur free. Monster Makers clay is a great clay to use because it's very rigid so sculpting complex pieces will be supported well and it hardens very fast so making the mold will not damage your final piece.<br />
Craft foam seems to be very popular when it comes to making scales since it's very cheap to purchase and easy to shape. Simple circular cuts of craft foam can be arranged into a scale sheet to save time. Pumpkin seeds have also been used before but they're a bit difficult to arrance since they require a layer of clay to stay fit into place.<br />
<i>Special thanks to <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Mermaid-Star/164406580317833?ref=ts" target="_blank">Mermaid Star</a> and <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Dr-SeaWeeds-Plastic-Mer-gery-Clinic/241134609255540">Dr.Seaweed</a> for scale shapes and materials</i>Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-67841258471048342472012-04-27T23:14:00.001-07:002012-04-27T23:20:46.694-07:00How to make one-part Molds<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Are you looking to replicate something simple? Is it because you want to make it out of a different material or maybe just because you plan on making more than one? For whatever reason you may need, sometimes molds are just the easier route to go! Depending on the complexity of your object, you may be able to make a one-part mold.<br />
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<b><br /></b><br />
<b>Materials </b><br />
- Silicone or Latex<br />
- Clay (sulfur free recommended)<br />
- Multiple disposeable paintbrushes<br />
- Disposable cups or plastic measuring cups <br />
- Fiberglass resin<br />
- Fiberglass cloth OR<br />
- Plaster bandages <br />
- WD 40 or Mold Release<br />
- Petroleum Jelly<br />
- Scale that can read grams<br />
- Air duster <br />
- Scissors<br />
- GLOVES!<br />
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Total Cost Estimate: $140<br />
(based off what I had to buy)<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Currently Selling For: </span><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />Project Duration Estimate: 2-3 days</span><br />
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Many of these materials can be purchased at nearby arts and crafts stores, even Walmart. The actual molding pieces such as the silicones and latexes will probably need to be purchased online.<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />Overview:</span><br />
A lengthy tutorial that will teach you how to make a one-part silicone mold. These molds are often used for simple pieces that have at least one significant FLAT surface that you can use to press against a table with small or insignificant undercuts.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">WARNINGS:</span><span style="font-weight: bold;">RESIN of ANY type is extremely dangerous
when handled without following proper guidelines. Resin is not only
unsafe to touch, but it has a very strong smell and it's vapors will
cause very serious damage if inhaled. You MUST work in a well ventilated
area AND wear a breathing respirator to filter the harmful airborne
chemicals it releases. ALWAYS wear gloves when handling it. If it gets
onto your clothing you MUST remove and dispose of the contaminated
clothing piece. Do not attempt to use resin if you are under 18 years
old. Please ask a parent for help.<br />LIQUID LATEX may or may not be a
harmful substance because latex varies from person to person. Some
people are allergic to it and cannot touch, handle, or even smell it,
while others can come into contact with it and they will not develop
rashes. You should always wear gloves when handling wet liquid latex,
wear a respirator, and work in a well ventilated area. Since allergies
can arise spontaneously, it's important that you take the extra step to
prevent any unneccessary contact.</span><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">SILICONE can often be dangerous if handled without gloves. Many mold silicones are unsafe for prolonged skin contact and should not be handled for long periods of time or be allowed to dry on the skin. Some types of silicone also often release very strong smells. While some of the fumes are not dangerous, they are very unpleasant. Please wear gloves and work in a well ventilated area.</span><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">AIR DUSTER is a very dangerous cocktail of chemicals and is NOT to ever be ingested or inhaled. When using a can of air duster, aim away from your or anyone else's face. It also often releases freezing air which is very painful.<br />ALWAYS read the warning labels on products you are unfamiliar with.</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;"><br />Always
make sure you read through the entire process before beginning to avoid
mistakes and get a general idea of how the project will progress.<br />Now let's make get started:</span><br />
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<b>Step 1: Preparing your Subject</b><br />
The very first step in this tutorial is going to be finding and preparing the piece you're going to be molding. If you're piece is already made and ready to go, then skip this paragraph. If not, then I can only assume you're sculpting or making the piece yourself. Generally, when making an object you want to mold, it's popular and useful to make it out of air-dry modeling clay (water based). You can go with oil based, but water based is just easier to clean. Anyway, when you sculpt your piece, make sure one of the surfaces is completely flat and will not be difficult to remove the silicone from. I used a couple sheets of wax paper to keep the silicone from making contact with my table. Generally, you can use a piece of wood or a plastic table, just make sure you don't care much for it. To make the piece flat, simply work on a table and press the bottom surface flat against it. If you're doing an intricate pattern such as I did, you're probably going to want to make the indents very deep so that the silicone that gets into any of the crevices is strong and thick enough that it won't break off. Once it's done, let it dry off completely. If you need to take breaks from working, simply put a bit of water over the top of the piece and wrap some foil over the top so it won't dry out.<br />
Now that your piece is done (or you already had one) you need to make sure the bottom piece that is flat against the table doesn't allow air underneath. If you sculpted it against the table as mentioned, then it shouldn't be too big of a deal and you can probably skip this step.<br />
However, you will need to spray MOLD RELEASE onto your piece regardless of what it's made of! Home Depot usually sells a universal mold release. If not, Michaels, AC Moore, and other craft stores often sell mold releases, but they're often way overpriced. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgBu3BPxlgc-Pip5kdOGSFBFlCUx3Ayp164Ea9hIdEjRu206nz94FDVKvL9MLJXvERnX97vbSUrjti4pZAAW-T4Sc1oEO5_4lT8VZLOJ8HLXW7iZ6WNaHLq1QJGWp2MGadm9RiPHsezXE/s1600/2.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgBu3BPxlgc-Pip5kdOGSFBFlCUx3Ayp164Ea9hIdEjRu206nz94FDVKvL9MLJXvERnX97vbSUrjti4pZAAW-T4Sc1oEO5_4lT8VZLOJ8HLXW7iZ6WNaHLq1QJGWp2MGadm9RiPHsezXE/s320/2.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<b>Step 2: Coating in Silicone</b><br />
Now that you have the piece ready to go, we're going to coat it in silicone. For this tutorial, I used Mold Max 30 (it can be found <a href="http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-an/c2_1113_1135/index.html?catdepth=1">here</a>) as well as Thi-Vex, a thickening agent (found <a href="http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-Ac/c1128_1197/index.html?catdepth=1">here</a>). You can use other things, I simply used Mold Max because it was recommended to me. Even if you don't use Mold Max, most molding silicones are very similar, so you should be able to still follow the tutorial. Anyway, the first thing you want to do is measure out your contents accurately. For most silicones, you have a part A and a part B that you need to mix together to a certain ratio. Mold Max is a 10:1 ratio respectively A to B. This means 10 parts A for every 1 part B. For a more detailed explanation, view the video <a href="http://www.blogger.com/%3Ca%20href=%22http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l79/_Kanti_/?action=view&current=Swimtest.mp4%22%3E%3Cimg%20alt=%22%22%20border=%220%22%20id=%22BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636068884410692354%22%20src=%22https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizgwJN5HYN0HVpOnDRrN6qCWo6Tojqc8w3-2NN_6WEj-6LoL9Q4HnAD_DTQgMvppzfO646ERQG80fLr7MHcl3zSENuAqDOrjg5DAwwl1nd90R9c6ypCRlT7S_EjMNfLde0_F9zwLpit3U/s400/Swim+test+icon.jpg%22%20style=%22display:%20block;%20height:%20239px;%20margin:%200px%20auto%2010px;%20text-align:%20center;%20width:%20400px;%22%20/%3E%3C/a%3E" target="_blank">here</a>. Anyhow, once you've got the silicone mixed, you're going to need to put on a thin first layer of silicone. Simply pour your silicone onto the center of your piece and use a disposable paintbrush to lightly work the silicone evenly all over your piece. This layer is very important because it will capture all the detail of your piece. Don't use TOO much silicone, it'll just run off the piece and onto the surface of your table, just use a light layer. Once your entire subject is coated with a decent layer of silicone, take out your air duster. You'll need to lightly spray the surface of your piece to reveal and get rid of any trapped air bubbles that may have formed. You DEFINITELY don't want bubbles in the piece or you''ll get unwanted bumps and lumps in your final cast. The bubbles are a bit difficult to spot, but don't be scared of the weird shapes that form when you spray the air at the silicone. <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=iv&src_vid=3SFeqQGAjLc&annotation_id=annotation_380157&v=mAy1-4f1_GM" target="_blank">Here</a> is a nice video showing the process.<br />
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Once the first layer of silicone is on, allow it to semi-dry for an hour or so before you add your second layer. Adding the second layer is the same as the first, you SHOULD use the air duster to reveal and get rid of any air bubbles. Depending on how runny your silicone is, you may or may not have to do this the other later layers. If your silicone is very runny, almost watery, you may want to do it again. If an air bubble gets trapped right under the surface of the mold, there is a chance it may tear open when you de-mold anything from it and you certainly don't want that. Anyway, once you've added about 3-4 thin layers, it's time to take out your Thi-Vex or other thickening agent and add it into your next batch of silicone. The thickening agent is great because it will add strength and multiple layers to your mold. It's a quick way of bulking it up and you want it to be relatively thick or it will be more prone to tearing. Not only this, but thickeners are often vital depending on your piece. If your subject has lots of undercuts, you need to fill them with silicone and slope them so that your shell won't snag onto them and tear them off when demolding. If you're confused as to what I just said, just make sure you're finished silicone piece looks somewhat like a dome. You want all the edges to be smooth and you want the bottom to be wider than the top. In the next step, we will make a shell and if the shell can get under anything in your piece, it's no good. Use the silicone thickener to get a cake icing thickness of silicone that will stay put so you can fill any spaces with it. Silicone thickener generally doesn't have a ratio to be mixed, you simply add more the thicker you want the silicone. For my mold, I put 3 thin layers and 2 thick layers.<br />
Once you're done, let the mold rest and cure overnight (roughly 16 hours).<br />
<br />
<b>*OPTIONAL*</b><br />
<b>Using Silicone Caulk </b><br />
If you're going to be using silicone caulk, things will be a bit different. It's supposedly bad for you when it comes to frequent skin contact. What this tutorial calls for requires handling the caulk directly and I've been told that it's not harmful so long as there is no prolonged contact. If you don't want to handle the silicone, simply wear some gloves or use a tool rather than your hands. If you do handle the silicone, make sure you wash your hands thoroughly after use for about 5 minutes to completely dissolve any remaining silicone. Besides that, work in a well ventilated area, this stuff reeks.<br />
Anyhow, the very first layer should be thin and carefully done since it's the one that will be capturing all the detail. Once you've got it done, you can add more on top. To apply the silicone caulk, you're going to need a caulk gun and a cup of soapy water. Caulk guns can be bought in the same area as caulk tubes, so just grab one when you get your tubes. To make your soapy water, put a super load of soap into a cup and jet in some warm sink water. The soapy water is used to keep the silicone from sticking to your hands and it works quite well. Add a nice glob of caulk on one side of your piece and use your fingers to press it across the entire length of the piece. If you need to add more caulk, add it over the caulk you already have set. This prevents air bubbles from getting trapped. Push the caulk into all the crevices, adding any more that you may need to fill them. Caulk dries rather quick, only about an hour or so, but you don't really need to wait for it to dry inbetween layers. Once you've got one layer of caulk across your piece, let it sit until it gets a little gummy, then just add some more on top. You shouldn't let the caulk dry completely, as silicone sometimes won't stick to itself once cured.<br />
<br />
<b>*OPTIONAL*</b><br />
<b>Using Latex</b><br />
If you're using latex, you generally will do the same as the above materials, however, you will probably be working in much thinner layers. Mold making latex is essentially liquid latex. Whereas most silicones are runny but have a more paste-like consistency, latex is VERY runny. Do the same as you would with regular silicone, adding a small layer first to capture detail, then work yourself up with multiple layers. The advantage to latex is that it dries VERY quickly, so time inbetween layers shouldn't be that bad. Since latex is so runny, your first layer will probably be VERY thin. Simply add 3 or 4 layers in this thin latex just to ensure you can SEE that there are no bubbles. Once you've done the first few, you can use latex thickener to thicken the latex and pour it on top, saving time. <br />
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<b>Step 3: Making the Shell</b><br />
Now to make the support shell that will go around your mold. This is important to have because it keeps the silicone from flopping around or sagging when you're making a cast. You don't want a warped piece do you? Anyway, you can make the shell multiple ways. Most people will go with plaster bandages because it's cheap and simple, but they tend to release lots of debris overtime and are a bit weak. You can also use plaster of paris or other plasters, but they are often very bulky and hard to store. I used fiberglass sheets and fiberglass resin to make a lightweight, thin, yet durable shell. The downside, however, is that fiberglass is gross and smelly. Fiberglass cloth is ok to touch, but when cut, it makes a mess, and resin smells horrible and is bad for you, so working outdoors in a well-ventilated area is always a good idea. You WILL NEED GLOVES. I don't care how awesome you think you are, you WILL get resin on your hands and it will be unpleasant. Anyhow, the first step no matter what you use, is to take a knife and trim the excess silicone around the mold. Keep about an inch or so around the actual piece. Next, coat the silicone in petroleum jelly. The jelly can be found in any drugstore or a regular store like Walmart or Target. Simply grab a brush or use your hands to spread a very thin coat over the top. If you want to, you can also add a layer of WD40 just for good measure. Let it dry for a few minutes. If you're going to use plaster bandages, simply grab a bucket of water, cut them up, dip them in the water and apply them to the surface or your piece. If you're using plaster of paris, add some water to the powder, mix it up, and coat a large amount onto the surface. <br />
If you're going to be using the fiberglass, cut all the cloth into strips first. Once you get the resin onto your hands, you won't be able to stop and cut any more strips so you may as well just cut it all beforehand. Not only that, but resin has a very short working time so you won't have any time. It's easier to just grab the strips of fiberglass and throw them onto your mold and never touch them again. They're going to come apart and annoy you soon anyway. So once you've got them all cut up, mix your resin with the catalyst and grab another paintbrush. Lay a strip of fiberglass onto the cloth and dap it with a nice amount of resin to stick it onto the mold. Since you added the petroleum jelly, it will be a little difficult, but just dab the paintbrush downward directly onto the cloth rather than stroking it sideways to keep it from moving very much. Simple as that, just keep adding the cloth until you have about 2 layers of it, then let it dry completely before removing it.<br />
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<b>Step 4: Demolding</b><br />
Finally, the most exciting part! Now it's time to detatch your mold from the table, take off your shell and remove the inside to look at your mold! First things first, remove your shell, this should be relatively easy since we added the jelly to lubricate the surface. Now, gently peel the silicone off the surface. Depending on what sort of piece you have, this may also peel the silicone off the original piece. If not, just get ready to flip it over and fight it off. Now you're probably regretting the fact you put all the jelly on the surface, at least I did. The silicone was really gross to touch because it was so slimy, so maybe put some gloves on for this part. If you're like me and you used a clay sculpt, you will probably end up flipping the mold over and tearing it out. Don't be too forceful, but if you need to, you can stretch the silicone to help remove any complex pieces. Once the majority of the clay is out, you will probably see a destroyed original. Unfortunately, this is inevitable unless you completely massacred the original piece with all sorts of lubricants. Either way, there will probably be some residue inside the mold as well. This is a great advantage to using water based clay, all you have to do is dunk your silicone piece into some warm water for a few minutes to dissolve the clay and rub any remaining chunks off with your finger. If you're like me and you used oil based clay, you can also put it in warm water, but this will only loosen the clay. You will probably need to scrub it off using a soft scrub or a toothbrush as rubbing it with your finger will only spread it around in a thin layer. Once you remove all the clay, you may notice some rough edges or extra silicone in your mold in very thin feathery layers. These are little layers of silicone that manage to get under raised surfaces. Simply grab some scissors and gently trim any excess or unwanted silicone to clean up your mold.<br />
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AND THERE YOU HAVE IT!<br />
A lovely one part mold that you can use to make many copies of that lovely sculpture you had to sacrifice! <br />
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For more information on purchasing jewelery and other props in my
tutorials, requesting a custom item, or an idea for a new tutorial, feel
free to email me at <span style="font-weight: bold;">Kanti-Kane@hotmail.com</span> (:
</div>
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<br />Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-22174648375831257142012-03-27T09:12:00.004-07:002012-03-27T10:44:13.996-07:00Not dead, just having issues.Hey guys just a quick shout out to show I'm still working on tutorials, I've just hit a bit of a snag with my work so I've got about 4 almost finished tutorials with a couple that are still in need of severe editing due to a sudden change of methods. On top of that, I've lost my camera, yay. Anyway, here's a list of the things that should be coming out soon:<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Almost ready to post</span><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">- Full-body dragon suit with built in wings<br />- Hooved shoes (needs a lot of editing)<br />- Deadmau5 helmet<br />- Making and painting sculpey horns<br />- Basic one-part molds<br />- Complex molds</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Currently in the works</span><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">- Realistic mermaid tails<br />- Basic spandex mermaid tails<br />- Simple resin masks<br />- Complex resin masks</span><br /><br /><br />Thanks for all of your patience, support and for taking the time to read!Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-15858285964685453102011-10-13T22:12:00.000-07:002012-08-18T14:13:37.280-07:00Daft Punk Helmet TutorialWant to make some cool armor but not so sure how to tackle it? Do you want to make a custom helmet but you don't have any idea what to do? Well I'm going to show you how to make a lightweight, durable, and relatively cheap way to make a helmet! In this tutorial, I'm going to show you how!<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />Materials:</span><br />
- Cardstock paper<br />
- Pepakura designer<br />
- Fiberglass cloth<br />
- Fiberglass resin<br />
- Vacuum former<br />
- PETG sheet/plexiglass<br />
- Plastic cutter<br />
- Ruler<br />
- Clamp<br />
- Exacto knife<br />
- Quick dry glue<br />
- Bondo car filler<br />
- Spot putty<br />
- Sandpaper<br />
<br />
Total Cost Estimate: Around $100<br />
(based off what I had to buy)<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Currently selling for: All of your dollars</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Project Duration Estimate: Several weeks</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Overview:</span> <br />
A detailed explanation on how to turn a pepakura file into a durable, lightweight helmet, possibly even a master mold for copies. This tutorial includes lots of power tools and potentially dangerous materials, so please get an adult to help you out.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">WARNINGS: <br />Exacto knives are VERY sharp. Be extremely careful when handling it! Always pay close attention to what you’re doing.<br />Fiberglass resin is a very toxic and dangerous substance. ALWAYS wear a respirator, goggles, and work in a well ventilated area.<br />BONDO: Car filler, can be dangerous. It releases very strong fumes and should not be handled without gloves.<br />This tutorial also calls for multiple power tools and manual tools that may be potentially hazardous if misused. PLEASE get an adult's help when it comes to using things you're unfamiliar with. Don't feel bad, either- I ask my dad for help all the time.</span><br />
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<span style="font-style: italic;">Always make sure you read through the entire process before beginning to avoid mistakes and get a general idea of how the project will progress.<br />Now let's make get started:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhViYuQcdTkYCsAdUsMy8EN4XRh3YaMoHsZW5gEZ-tKVpVYKBznK_ZS7dR6s1N4Hrnj-pTArms6Qo1qJ4KmQK9_bvCH8tr6mvih26YeyGvI4ctvjrBGyA5HrWjXcfdF7UyMQL3Xg6SjIj0/s1600/1.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670149446048140226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhViYuQcdTkYCsAdUsMy8EN4XRh3YaMoHsZW5gEZ-tKVpVYKBznK_ZS7dR6s1N4Hrnj-pTArms6Qo1qJ4KmQK9_bvCH8tr6mvih26YeyGvI4ctvjrBGyA5HrWjXcfdF7UyMQL3Xg6SjIj0/s320/1.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 237px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step 1: Choosing your model</span><br />
The very first step of starting this project is deciding what type of helmet/armor you’d like to make and finding the appropriate pepakura, adobe reader, photoshop, or whatever type of file for it that you like. Obviously. Well, you’d be surprised. I would strongly recommend using pepakura models, but often it’s hard to find those randomly around the internet and you need to search for a while. The reason I suggest it is because pepakura is DESIGNED for papercrafts, positioning pieces, rescaling the models and arranging the printing orders is very easy in the program. I really have NO idea how to rescale a photoshop or .pdf file, but I know that when you do so, I believe it increases or decreases the size in a ratio (1/3 the size, 2/9 the size) rather than being able to input the height, width, and depth of the model like you can in pepakura. Either way, I would RECOMMEND pepakura. Anyhow, once you decide the item you’d like to make, you need to search the internetz for a file that looks close enough to what you'd like. For halo helmets and daft punk helmets, there are a surprising amount of variations of the SAME style of helmet, so you need to pay close attention to which features you’d like, what looks easier to build, or whatever it is you’re looking for in specific. When you open a pepakura file, you get to see the pieces of the papercraft laid out in front of you along with the model itself with all the pieces arranged. This is great because you can see exactly how complicated and detailed the helmet will be, as well as how difficult and annoying it will be to create it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtSVAJpsxIDD8xxKKNPlAE3FDBhbMkfdRPUOrZriapm3gsAINR08V8rR7HskBPG0nS1SDXJHnU832-MNS7bdZypAFktfMmh9tP1LvKNZAlBv_lM3Z7uL8e8azBYC6Z3qyCHnHkPa5RXU8/s1600/2.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670149654274053874" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtSVAJpsxIDD8xxKKNPlAE3FDBhbMkfdRPUOrZriapm3gsAINR08V8rR7HskBPG0nS1SDXJHnU832-MNS7bdZypAFktfMmh9tP1LvKNZAlBv_lM3Z7uL8e8azBYC6Z3qyCHnHkPa5RXU8/s320/2.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 206px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 320px;" /></a> <br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step 2: Scaling the model</span><br />
I’ve already made a fully detailed tutorial on this step (found <a href="http://kantikane.blogspot.com/2011/07/how-to-adjust-scale-on-pepakura-model.html">HERE</a>), but I’ll talk about it for just a second here as well. When scaling the model, you have to take a few things into account. Are you the only one who’s going to be wearing this helmet? Does it need to fit multiple people? How snug do you want it? Are you going to install LEDs, cooling fans, or any other electronic systems inside the helmet? When considering all these, you can decide on how exact you’d like it to be in according to your calculations that you will be making. Of course, the downside is that in order to scale the model, you need to purchase Pepakura Designer. The free version – Pepakura Viewer, doesn’t have the option to scale models or rearrange the pieces, so if you don’t feel like buying it, you’re going to have to hope that your model’s scale isn’t too large or small. Remember, I am offering to scale models for anyone who needs it and print them on cardstock for you, just shoot me an email for more information.<br />
Sometimes you can get away with not scaling down a model, but often the more detailed ones are purposely made extremely large in order to capture the details well. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPer82PDpfNiu7GkSlKf21ALtt92dkaQDaPN01AcGQGwsJVQ-w3vB8KzwD_k6ElRscIc0DTgRoWLjiDIZF0xmDjITaN4hfy4sWpaZNjoOqgCM97IahQrH_v3GZDgpW2btEKbxsMTAgFyk/s1600/3.1.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670149782164566722" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPer82PDpfNiu7GkSlKf21ALtt92dkaQDaPN01AcGQGwsJVQ-w3vB8KzwD_k6ElRscIc0DTgRoWLjiDIZF0xmDjITaN4hfy4sWpaZNjoOqgCM97IahQrH_v3GZDgpW2btEKbxsMTAgFyk/s320/3.1.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 185px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step 3: Cutting and making the model</span><br />
Once you’ve gotten the model all nice and scaled down, you’re going to have to print it out , cut it, and form the actual craft. You MUST print the model on CARDSTOCK!! Cardstock paper is a thick, durable paper that greeting cards are made of. It can be found readily at any office store for a decent price, arts and crafts stores for much more money, and can be found very cheap at Walmart! Cardstock paper is important to have because it’ll make the model stiff and will be able to hold onto the resin without melting or collapsing like normal paper would. Making the model is probably the most annoying part, especially if you’re doing a detailed helmet. That’s why you need to make sure your pepakura model is favorable. For example, if you have 6 months to make the helmet, a 19 page pepakura model with 40 pieces may not be so bad, but if you have a week and a half to finish, you might need to stick with the 10 page model with 16 pieces.<br />
Anyway, when it comes to cutting the model, you’ll notice many of the pieces have small triangles, squares, or other shapes sticking out from the main piece to aid in putting them together. This usually causes the models to be VERY hard to cut out with scissors. I STRONGLY recommend using an exacto knife. The exacto knife is very accurate, can cut corners sharply, and will allow you to cut the pieces out while they're flat on a table or floor- this will prevent you from bending or messing with your pieces before you’re ready to put them together. If you do go with an exacto knife, you’re probably going to want to buy a few extra blades- the sharper your blades, the easier things are to cut, so you’re going to want to switch out blades, especially if you’ve got a bunch of pieces.<br />
For actually piecing the model together, you’re going to need to use glue. I recommend glue because it binds the pieces VERY well in comparison to tape. Tape is a HUUGE no. It will come apart and annoy the crap out of you while you’re working on another piece or if you tug on the model too hard. It also makes the finished model very flimsy and bendy (trust me, I wasted hours making a model with tape, it was horrible). Glue is the way to go. It gives time to adjust and move the pieces while it dries and once it dries, the glue soaks deeply into the paper and holds tightly and usually won’t come apart. Just make sure you choose a quick drying glue that’s flexible- you don’t want to be sitting there for minutes waiting for ONE thing to dry. I used a glue called “Quick Hold” that I found at Walmart. It’s a super-glue grade glue that dries pretty damn fast while not being totally annoying or extremely strong while it’s wet, so you have lots of time to put things into place. Besides the glue, exacto, and cardstock, you’re pretty much on your own. Just keep the pepakura model open on a computer in front of you so that you can keep track of where you’re going and try to start from one side of the model and completely work your way to the other. For example, if you start from the top, work to the bottom- if you start from the front, work to the back. This isn’t 100% accurate for all models, but it helps prevent you from bending pieces or stressing the model.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">*OPTIONAL STEP*<br />Step 3b/5b: Reinforcing your Model</span><br />
Now this step isn't completely necessary, but I'd highly recommend it. It really helps your model keep a definite shape throughout the entire process of layering and SHOULD be taken before adding bondo. If you're going to be putting fiberglass resin and cloth on the OUTSIDE of your helmet, then it may be best to do this directly after step 3. If you're going to be adding the fiberglass resin and cloth on the INSIDE of the helmet, then you may want to do this directly after step 5 (hence the 3b and 5b).<br />
Either way, all this step includes is adding a few pieces of wood inside your papercraft to keep it stable and in place throughout the entire process of layering bondo and resin. Sometimes resin can warp the model and make it irregular and bondo will weigh the helmet down in different directions which leads to complications later on in the symmetry as well as simply keeping the helmet looking nice. So all we're going to need extra for this step are some thin wooden sticks, paint mixing sticks are a nice option, but since they're wide they might get in the way. Thin, wooden frames can be used for this step, if not, just grab some thin wooden sheets and cut them into strips yourself. The shape and design of your helmet is going to be the determining factor of how you go about this, so it's hard for me to tell you exactly. But you're going to want 2 basic supports, a horizontal and a vertical. The horizontal should run across the inside of the widest part of the helmet and the vertical support should go from the top of the helmet to the base, even past it a bit, to keep the helmet from sinking into itself. Arguably, you only need the horizontal support, but if you're scared you can always add the vertical one just in case. More supports should/can be added to places of weakness (example, the tip/chin of Guy Manuel's helmet or the visor of Thomas Bangalter's helmet). Simply mark the pieces, cut them, and place them inside the models using painter's tape. Don't glue them in or anything, since we're going to want to remove them later on.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnMnr9lvMhwKZLiZu7-pQMlWFlajh0JsagrbN5Q3-cQTQLtVAUGvFroU5mmVgNvFLyr8IEbnA8srHaK_-rWkbydmnnw2mwCS47F-v0pLIqmVptcwPjRiQ1r35dXsgS1PECpTbACPwzB9k/s1600/4.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670150282028997698" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnMnr9lvMhwKZLiZu7-pQMlWFlajh0JsagrbN5Q3-cQTQLtVAUGvFroU5mmVgNvFLyr8IEbnA8srHaK_-rWkbydmnnw2mwCS47F-v0pLIqmVptcwPjRiQ1r35dXsgS1PECpTbACPwzB9k/s320/4.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 240px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step 4: Coating in Resin</span><br />
Once your model is nice and put together, it's time to ruin the hell out of it. Nah, it should be fine (in theory). From now on, the steps are going to get more and more tedious, but they will strongly effect how durable your helmet will be. The first step is to coat the model in fiberglass resin. The first thing you're going to want to do is gather all your materials in one place so that once you start, you don't have to run around or get anything. Once the catalyst is added to the resin, it will begin to dry, so you won't have time to do much besides put it on the model. So get your measuring cups, paintbrushes (around 3 or 4 is what I used), mixing sticks, plastic/latex gloves, respirator, apron, goggles, and resin all in one spot. You should also work outside, if possible. If you're going to work in a garage like I did, make sure the door is open and that you have some sort of fan on to shoot all the nasty resin fumes outside. Anyhow, the first coat of resin is the most important. It has to be thick enough so that it will make the helmet hard yet thin enough that it doesn't weigh your model down or make it sag or collapse. Coat the INSIDE of the helmets with the resin in a thin layer using a paintbrush. You should probably use the cheap-O ones at home depot because you're probably going to be tossing it out after. Cleaning resin off paintbrushes is pretty much impossible. Anyway, the first inner coat should be simple enough. Let it dry for about 4-6 hours before adding the next coat. You can coat the outside of the helmet just for good measure, but you should be more concerned with the inside.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiik4kcFmDuw3UMjwHgxueLONage8W0ZVwK__i1ftmkZMyOL37e_DyaO76PNr4qbVdZUSlfFSJCkeFUAqyfiIC78n7JBz2R77xPflBdTsHYVdXzhVlWsHAk_JIO93LnAnYLi7LqI_gCvsM/s1600/5.3.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670150716218729890" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiik4kcFmDuw3UMjwHgxueLONage8W0ZVwK__i1ftmkZMyOL37e_DyaO76PNr4qbVdZUSlfFSJCkeFUAqyfiIC78n7JBz2R77xPflBdTsHYVdXzhVlWsHAk_JIO93LnAnYLi7LqI_gCvsM/s320/5.3.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 259px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step 5: Adding Fiberglass Cloth</span><br />
Now this step can be a bit tricky, but it shouldn't take you too long, either. However, it WILL drive you mad. Haha, maybe not, let's hope not. We're basically going to take our fiberglass cloth and put it on our helmet to reinforce it. I added my fiberglass to the outside of the helmet, but I recently found out that adding it to the inside of the helmet is much more favorable AND a lot easier! Either way, it's something that you may decide on personally, but I would recommend the inside. So one thing you've hopefully learned about working with the fiberglass resin is that you're going to want to get everything 100% ready before you mix your resin with the hardener. So the very first step is to cut your fiberglass cloth into small pieces. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEJfoNb_Xbx1PU3vhp-vDggBC6kI0W4yjAI0Z0MD8oZM0rJ7Rm2n_epyzdxJ14sZSTyDyNUcxJWCgh57p_ejgy41buf9HuNB-jxerSYlkk1seKun4Y_ZfAytrH8no5Kx6cQqBtptKaLcM/s1600/matt.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670152573300006354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEJfoNb_Xbx1PU3vhp-vDggBC6kI0W4yjAI0Z0MD8oZM0rJ7Rm2n_epyzdxJ14sZSTyDyNUcxJWCgh57p_ejgy41buf9HuNB-jxerSYlkk1seKun4Y_ZfAytrH8no5Kx6cQqBtptKaLcM/s320/matt.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 160px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
Now, before we get into it, I'd like to point out a couple different options. There are 2 different types of fiberglass: there's fiberglass MATTING and fiberglass CLOTH. Fiberglass matting is very random looking. It kind of looks like someone piled a bunch of thin strings together and made them into a matt. It's usually a lot stronger, doesn't come apart as much as cloth, but it's also a lot less flexible. Fiberglass cloth, on the other hand, is very organized looking. It has a definite weave pattern, is much thinner and more flexible, yet comes apart very easily. Fiberglass cloth is probably the best choice for getting into all the cracks of the helmet and it's probably more readily available than fiberglass matting is. With whichever you choose, the following steps are the same, I just wanted to note some differences.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzSsIkazmrlUFY46-dks5_UfZ3rUDC7cX7-T-_HRx4E84Rq5xOkbUx47IrLblDPdNgWDGn_p8fjGJzssxtsyVeEeh1sJWErfIVYUcedJnpeh4ZEkcB_7NeUlKFq7B2DerXqgxu-pUl0-g/s1600/5.1.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670150507606598194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzSsIkazmrlUFY46-dks5_UfZ3rUDC7cX7-T-_HRx4E84Rq5xOkbUx47IrLblDPdNgWDGn_p8fjGJzssxtsyVeEeh1sJWErfIVYUcedJnpeh4ZEkcB_7NeUlKFq7B2DerXqgxu-pUl0-g/s320/5.1.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 241px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
ANYWAY, back to our actual thing. So you're going to cut your fiberglass cloth into thin strips, preferably medium length, of about 4-6 inches. Be extremely careful with the cloth as you cut it, because fiberglass loves to come apart and make a huge mess. Use very sharp scissors and try not to tug or pull on the strips or it will come apart and get EVERYWHERE. We're going to be essentially using these as "paper mache" to reinforce the inside of the helmet. When you cut your pieces, try to leave them inside the helmet so you have an idea of when you have enough strips to fully cover the inside. However, don't use this as an excuse to stop cutting more strips.. ALWAYS CUT MORE THAN WHAT YOU THINK YOU'RE GOING TO USE. It's better to have all the strips pre-cut so you don't have to deal with more resin. Not only that, but you may need to go back and reinforce some areas that aren't covered as well. It's just generally a good idea to just have everything prepared and ready to go before you start so you're not wasting gloves, paintbrushes, or other materials in between layering times.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyLnalXcVIQycko5rN60v2RTtZdvJhIu98-fWbMgquihJgwDTSPzwOTenHQV0q-1g5jmcA14mea_RiBMuwjchibuc16ZUu3INARsnTGmVUhr8Bc7EgvMmmKd7ZWcugAGDXPkZR1mMM1JQ/s1600/5.2.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670152953345651970" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyLnalXcVIQycko5rN60v2RTtZdvJhIu98-fWbMgquihJgwDTSPzwOTenHQV0q-1g5jmcA14mea_RiBMuwjchibuc16ZUu3INARsnTGmVUhr8Bc7EgvMmmKd7ZWcugAGDXPkZR1mMM1JQ/s320/5.2.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 320px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 219px;" /></a><br />
Anyhow, once you've got all your fiberglass cut, put some gloves on, mix up your resin, and apply a thin coat on the inside of the helmet. This coat doesn't need to be thick at all, it's simply to help you set the pieces into place. So, begin sticking your strips inside the helmet. When you have about 3 or 4 set in place, grab a nice brush-full of resin and dab it on top of the fiberglass strips. DO NOT STROKE THEM as you would if you were painting- for it will make them slide around, simply dab the resin into the strips from straight above until they're completely soaked. You'll notice that as you soak them, they will change color and almost 'disappear'. Simply pat them down until they're flat and soaked, then move on and add more strips, repeating the process until the entire helmet is lined. You may or may not want to add multiple layers of fiberglass. It's really up to you, but usually one layer is plenty. Once you're satisfied, set the helmet aside and allow it to completely dry! This usually takes significantly longer since there is a lot more resin, so allow around double the time.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsCm91ro8-xbIVYGP7QZyqSNcl92FUhyPHAMJ1qWGNYt91K7BIMfFItHiEW9BVC_yiL9dgPCggfLgwH4A3nC5B9rs1zlz-DPtvZqbFHSt2_oapEs_AsBjj3NaFFBm9j-jkHNnlPA4TDfM/s1600/5b.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670153197992068018" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsCm91ro8-xbIVYGP7QZyqSNcl92FUhyPHAMJ1qWGNYt91K7BIMfFItHiEW9BVC_yiL9dgPCggfLgwH4A3nC5B9rs1zlz-DPtvZqbFHSt2_oapEs_AsBjj3NaFFBm9j-jkHNnlPA4TDfM/s320/5b.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 279px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">OPTIONAL STEP 5b: Sanding the Fiberglass</span><br />
Since there are multiple ways to make the helmet there are multiple ways to go about doing this. In this case, if you added your fiberglass cloth to the INSIDE of your model, you don't have to really worry about sanding anything down. On the other hand, if you've added it to the OUTSIDE of your model (as shown in the pictures) you should probably do your best to sand it down and trim any excess fiberglass handing off the edges. For this step, I had to use a power sander. Fiberglass and fiberglass resin are a bit more obnoxious to sand down than bondo, so I would recommend getting your hands on an electric sander if possible. At this point, I just don't think the sandpaper will cut it. Home Depot sells a very nice detail sander for only about $30 (can be seen <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100607606/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053">HERE</a>). It has good reviews and it's the one I ended up buying and I don't regret it so far. Anyway, this part doesn't have to be perfect anyway, you're just using the sander to get rid of all the uneven edges left behind by the cloth from stacking and simply hanging off the edge. Usually you can trim off some of the dangling pieces with scissors, especially if they're not coated with resin. That's another thing, if you missed a few spots and there are still dry patches of fiberglass cloth, DO NOT SAND. Go over them again with the resin. EVERYTHING SHOULD BE SOAKED: if not, when you go over it with the sander, the sander will simply unravel the threads and cause a big poofball.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrHOiBHY9P84Cp_yUabgHt8OjJJiqzfTfAGD98oqeA9A7u62A-v8FMWLkTxFN6yv5ZxhMRpPM0D45JQmGxBQYEHN_rRhM7R5Hw2Ew2O_K8aPDzmcax-C-km3b9sLlKXySZAuFV3RiaBEg/s1600/6.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670153320901223634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrHOiBHY9P84Cp_yUabgHt8OjJJiqzfTfAGD98oqeA9A7u62A-v8FMWLkTxFN6yv5ZxhMRpPM0D45JQmGxBQYEHN_rRhM7R5Hw2Ew2O_K8aPDzmcax-C-km3b9sLlKXySZAuFV3RiaBEg/s320/6.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 239px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step 6: Adding Bondo</span><br />
Now for some more caking on. This step we're going to be adding bondo car filler to the model. The bondo is a nice thing to have because it adds volume and weight to your helmet while allowing you to sand it down and make it smooth. The trick to adding the bondo is to make it as smooth as possible to eliminate the chances of bubbles being trapped in between layers. This will reduce your sanding time as well as your chances of needing a lot of spot putty. <br />
If you've never worked with bondo before, it's basically similar to resin in the sense that you have your main product and a hardener. However, bondo dries VERY quickly and has the consistency of thick cake icing, so it's a bit more annoying to work with. The trick is to work in very small samples of bondo rather than mixing the entire amount all at once like you'd do with resin. Only use a small blop of bondo (a blop thats 3inches in diameter) and just a little bit of hardener (make a thin line across the length of the bondo). There are instructions on the actual case, as well, but the 3inch diameter blops work very well.<br />
Spreading the bondo can be a pain if you use the wrong type of stuff and unlike resin, it can't be applied with a paintbrush. If you take a trip to Home Depot or Lowes to get some bondo, you'll notice near the aisle you find it in (painting section), there should be smoothing materials. Bondo sells a specific package of spreading thingies used especially for car filler. They're pink, bendy smoother thingies and they work great. I especially love that they're so flexible, unlike the normal stiff white plastic ones you get for $1. This allows a bit more maneuverability around corners or curved surfaces, but most importantly, it lets you flake off that stupid excess bondo that loves to cling onto the spreaders. They're about $4 but I think they're worth it, the only problem is they don't have small ones. If you don't feel like dishing out $4, that's fine too. Cardboard works surprisingly well when it comes to spreading bondo, the only problem is you'll need to replace it very often so cut a few extra squares of it before you begin, but it's basically free, so you can't lose. Whatever method you use, just make sure you spread your bondo as nicely and evenly as possible. Since you should be adding relatively thin layers, you only really need to put 2 or 3 layers onto the helmet in total. The more layers you put, the more imperfections you'll be able to hide from the pepakura, and the less blocky it'll look when you're done.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step 7: Wet Sanding </span><br />
Hopefully you took my advice and added thin, smooth layers of bondo onto your model. If you didn't, sanding is going to be a bitch. You're going to want at least 3 or 4 different grades of sandpaper for this. 60 is nice for starting off and weathering away most of the extra gunk, and 1000 is great for ending and getting the smoothest finish possible. So let's go with 60, 200, 400, 1000. You don't have to be exact like me, just make sure you have a nice range of sandpaper types so sanding will be as smooth as possible. Unfortunately, sanding will always take time, so just be patient. If you have a sponge to attach your sandpaper to, great, if not, just fold it up and sand by hand, it's similar enough that you won't notice. <br />
So anyway, to the actual sanding, you can start off your 60 directly to the model just to get a general "smooth". I put smooth in quotations because you're not going to get it very smooth, but just try to get rid of the major cracks and bumps. Try to chip away most of the excess bondo that you don't need and try to start re-defining any features that you may have over-coated with bondo. Once you're done, it's time to add some water. Take a bucket, fill it with water, and dump a random sponge and all your sandpaper in there. Soak up your sponge and empty it all over your bondo'ed model a couple times until everything is nice and wet. Don't worry about the actual model getting any water damage, either. The resin coats absorbed by the paper make it waterproof. Begin wet sanding with the 60 grade sandpaper again. Don't press very hard and keep a general view on your model so you don't over-sand one area. Even though the 60 is very coarse, it won't strip all the bondo off your model. Once you see the sanding is getting close, switch to your next sandpaper grade. In this case, the 200. Use the next grade up to get closer to the actual shape, in fact, pretend your next sandpaper is your last one and try to get all of your details as nicely done as possible. Only move sandpapers when you're happy with how the helmet looks. The 60 grade should have make the entire helmet smooth and the 200 should be to touch up everything. Everything after is simply to make it COMPLETELY SMOOTH. Since the sandpapers are so fine, they won't make any large or noticeable changes, instead, they'll make the helmet even smoother, so every grade after your first 2 should be simply to make the helmet that much smoother. It's pretty self-explanatory, just make sure to keep your model wet the entire time.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step 8: Adding Primer and Spot Putty</span><br />
The first thing you want to do after you've sanded your model down is to add a nice coat of primer on there. The primer helps seal up the bondo and make it less likely to release any more debris (also it looks nice). You may notice the bubbles or spots that I was talking about when it comes to smoothing start to appear as you sand. They will appear in the form of small crevices or dips that come out when you start sanding. Don't worry about these, that's what spot putty is for. Spot putty is available in the same place as normal car bondo is and it works the same, it's just smoother and doesn't require a hardener. It comes in a little toothpaste tube and all you have to do is squirt a bit onto your spreader or piece of cardboard and then smooth it onto the ugly spots. Go around your helmet and locate all the little indents that you can find and circle them with a sharpie. This will keep you from forgetting about any spots. Next, add spot putty to all the ugly places that you'd like to fix up. Unfortunately, this requires more sanding, but it's well worth it. Not just normal sanding, either. Get your bucket and sponge back out and toss out the 60 grit sandpaper. Go around your helmet and start sanding all the spot putty areas again with the last 3 sandpapers until you're pleased with the smoothness once again, then slap on another coat of primer.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step 9: Cutting out the Visor</span><br />
Now it's time for the scary part, cutting out the visor. Arguably, you can do this step earlier on, but I prefer later so that you can get a more precise borderline that's easier to fix and define with bondo. Try to use a small dremel or cutter to get as precise as you can. There's not really much else I can tell you besides to be careful and take your time. Once it's cut out, it's all downhill from here. All you have to do is touch up any uneven spots or scratches you may have made from cutting and then it's off to vacuum form your visor!<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step 10: Vacuum Forming</span><br />
Now this step can be extremely intimidating if you've never done it before, but it's really not as hard as it seems. Once you have the right info, anyway. All you really have to do is get the right supplies, measure everything accurately, and then be efficient in the actual process. Now, you might be saying, "wait, Kanti, I don't have a vacuum former, you never showed me how to make one", well, no, but for now I will give you 2 simple ways to make your own super awesome vacuum former for cheaps.<br />
The first method (seen <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5CGfoxnKaQ">HERE</a>) is a great and easy way to make one. It only takes about 20 minutes to fully assemble and works pretty nicely for almost anything you will probably be vacuum forming. What I don't like about this one, is that it's a big large, but besides that, it's great and lots of people use it.<br />
The other method (seen <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-good,-cheap,-upgradeable-sheet-plastic-vacu/">HERE</a>) is indeed a bit more complex, but it has a much stronger suction. This is useful for when it comes to getting those overhanging ledges (such as the visor in the Thomas helmet).<br />
Either way, everything is going to be the same process, just a different frame. So, anyway, one thing I learned is you DON'T use acrylic sheets. The first thing you probably think is "yea, they're too thick". Well, they are, but that's not a problem. Simply heat them at a higher temperature. The problem with acrylic is that it's a pain in the arse to cut and it often bubbles after it dries, so steer clear from it. I know I featured a <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QsnsOlNJ8c&feature=related">youtube video</a> showing off the acrylic, but disregard it. Acrylic apparently sucks.<br />
What you WANT instead are some PETG sheets. The can be readily found at your local plastic supply, some hardware stores, or online at amazon or eBay. I got mine from <a href="http://myworld.ebay.com/carlsievering/?_trksid=p4340.l2559">this store</a> off eBay for a great price. Where-ever you decide to get them, just make sure they're CLEAR, so this involves reading the descriptions on the items, because often, they will have colored plastic coating (that you later peel off) on them so they won't appear to be clear. Anyway, once you got your PETG sheets (mine was 0.02 inches thick), you need to set them up in your frames to heat in the oven. Before placing them in the oven, you should probably grab a pair of gardening gloves (unused please) and coat every corner of it with foil incase your plastic decides to melt around and get in your oven. This will make your parents very happy and they'll think you're being considerate! <br />
Anyway, the trick to heating the plastic is to watch for when it starts to tighten and then sagg a bit right afterwards. You'll notice the shine of the plastic will really be defined and it will almost start to look as if it's wet. Don't wait too long or let it sagg too much, at the first sign of an arch, turn your vacuum on, take the plastic out of the oven and place it over your visor. Let the vacuum do what it does best and let the plastic get sucked down onto the visor for a few seconds by itself. Then put your gardening gloves on and start smoothing the plastic down around any corners and eliminate any bubbles that may have formed while the plastic is still warm. For the Guy helmet, this step isn't completely necessary since it's generally smooth anyway, but if you're vacuum forming something more complex, you're going to want to pat and smooth it down.<br />
Once the plastic has been sitting for a few minutes, remove it from the mold. You don't want to let it sit there too long or it'll cling to whatever it is you vacuum formed (in this case the bondo) and chip it off.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step 11: Tinting and Installing your Visor</span><br />
Finally, a pretty easy part. Well, sort of. I've never actually tinted a window before so it was actually very difficult. Either way, the first thing youre going to want to do is cut out your visor from all the excess plastic on your vacuum mold. So take out a dremel or scissors, if your plastic is thin enough, and start to cut from the main shape. Once it's out and ready, get a spray bottle or sponge, and dampen the inside surface of your visor. For the actual tinting material, I went to Walmart and got something called "Insta-Cling". It's basically a tinting film that can be removed if need be and the advantage to that is that you can take it off if you mess up, which I did several times. Anyway, once you've got the inside of the visor wet, you're going to want to cut out a decently sized piece of film and then CAREFULLY place one side on the end of the visor, then with a damp cloth, sponge, or anything soft, really, you're going to press down firmly and press the film slowly onto the visor. Do this very carefully and do it slowly passing over ONCE. That means, don't slide it all down then go back and fix it, instead, press down completely on one side before going forward, so you basically move in little steps so that when you get to the end, all you have is the other side. It's hard to explain, really, but just work from one side to the next, don't go back, or you'll get airbubbles, and when you get bubbles, it's very hard to get them out. Once the film is nice and set, cut off all the excess with some scissors. The major problem I had with this tinting material is that the ends almost always love to work their ways back up when you handle the visor. Usually you can just stick them back down, but if the water underneath dries they will stay up. Simply wet it again and place it back down. You can pass a heat gun over the tint LIGHTLY to secure it a little, but don't go too much or you might warp the vacumm formed plastic.Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-29711082818064998692011-09-12T08:05:00.000-07:002011-11-20T03:22:36.757-08:00Hooved Shoes Update<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzvkWSYeyvHFCR7RFlcvUp9MsXeJ0xmhVMJzr4FlTHiwrGIV5DiNXEGfL5BR3Y55fPJ-INRN54RJYXH3mpN6TeVWMrlkkANoBnBdNkJnq8PZt0bnnv_TWdPjHsmtINZ4ZaZnoHHrVeKHU/s1600/Hooved+shoes+ad.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 349px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzvkWSYeyvHFCR7RFlcvUp9MsXeJ0xmhVMJzr4FlTHiwrGIV5DiNXEGfL5BR3Y55fPJ-INRN54RJYXH3mpN6TeVWMrlkkANoBnBdNkJnq8PZt0bnnv_TWdPjHsmtINZ4ZaZnoHHrVeKHU/s400/Hooved+shoes+ad.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5651489673742414562" /></a><br /><br />Hey guys!<br />Glad to say I've found some extra time to work on my hooved shoes.<br />For those of you who've been keeping up with them or even know what they are, I'd finished a prototype for a very realistic-looking shoe this past May and I've been getting a few requests for them. However, I did happen to take them for a 14 hour spin at a local convention only to learn the hard way that the hoof used in this shoe is muuuch too heavy and makes extended use very difficult, so I've told a few people that I'd rework them with a lighter and more durable hoof. Well, I've finally begun to work on the new pair and things are looking good so far!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMWCa-s4783iOy3MB6b2gRPp-x1e1XWSHytN76lX-OYx0ggHSqtiBqbRhdGasSBkh8b23Ll6b3yGFBhN6oBvzYduTSOn4sCLvymlwmBTp0Oce_BxI8c24zahJdY8d5VbUUAQP3hLYdeRg/s1600/Male+Female+Hooves.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 259px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMWCa-s4783iOy3MB6b2gRPp-x1e1XWSHytN76lX-OYx0ggHSqtiBqbRhdGasSBkh8b23Ll6b3yGFBhN6oBvzYduTSOn4sCLvymlwmBTp0Oce_BxI8c24zahJdY8d5VbUUAQP3hLYdeRg/s320/Male+Female+Hooves.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5651512921082934018" /></a><br />I will now have "male" and "female" hooves, which are really not so different from each other, other than size. The male hooves are about 1" longer and .5" wider than the female pair, allowing them to support a larger shoe size and also to make balance much easier for smaller shoes. They're not exclusive to guys, though. Anyone who would prefer the extra surface area or simply wants a larger looking hoof can order the male hooves.<br /><br />I think I may also market a more simple pair that will be cheaper and that can be more affordable for those of you who can't afford the newer pair I've been working on. For now, everything is still in the works, but I'm just throwing some ideas out so you guys can get an idea of what may be happening soon.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixrR_UkVPVQXHLRYDybdKVm9EdRGeBmyfE7acP92zQ6FWy2jRwrx51G9YONK6Erh-zsOrszn71afE1IjKfm-PxBvAXyMAdMKFSehMfujvoeUfddGLQaLaXt6LtwJdJU90aPTBkQpGWupk/s1600/hooves3.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 146px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixrR_UkVPVQXHLRYDybdKVm9EdRGeBmyfE7acP92zQ6FWy2jRwrx51G9YONK6Erh-zsOrszn71afE1IjKfm-PxBvAXyMAdMKFSehMfujvoeUfddGLQaLaXt6LtwJdJU90aPTBkQpGWupk/s320/hooves3.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5651513173945349074" /></a><br />I've also been surprised about how many guys have actually requested these shoes! For all the guys out there who may be reading, I just want to let you know that these hooves require a stiletto (shoes with 3" or more in heel height). I imagine most guys have never walked in heels before nor do they even know where to purchase them. Heels in men's sizes can be readily found at stores or websites for drag queens. If you'd prefer to not buy the shoes yourself, I will hunt a pair down for you, but I would STRONGLY recommend buying the heels and practicing in them. Then when you see how they fit, how they feel, and what it is you're up against. You can also send them to me and I will knock you a discount off the final price for already having the shoes.<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />Some FAQ</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Q:</span> How difficult is it to balance and walk in these shoes?<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A:</span> You have to consider a lot of things when answering this question. Your height, weight, composure, posture, and experience with high heels will influence how hard or easy it is. For me, it's rather easy to balance and walk in the shoes, but I have probably spent around 60 hours walking in them. They do take adjustment and getting used to. I also weigh only around 100 lbs and am 5'2 so I am very close to the ground and I don't put much weight on the heels themselves. If you are taller or more heavy set, you may not be able to wear them for longer periods or time or you may find balancing in them more difficult. You just have to practice, really.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Q:</span> What does it feel like to walk without a heel?<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A:</span> Anyone can really just put on a pair of stilettos and simply not let the heel touch the ground as they walk and they would feel how it is to walk in these. It's not all that hard, but it's a different style of walking that some people may find difficult. Just like normal heels, when wearing them over long periods of time, your feet WILL hurt.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Q:</span> Where exactly are you standing? On your toes?<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A:</span> No, all the weight is distributed on the balls of your feet. It is like tippy-toeing but really it's just like how you'd feel with walking in heels. After long periods of time the balls of your feet and the back of your ankles will hurt the most. Your toes will only hurt from pressing them down against the shoes for balance, not from weight.<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />Q:</span> Is a walking stick a good idea?<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A:</span> YES! A walking stick is a great thing to have to help you balance out your weight and to transfer some stress away from your feet. It's also an amazing way to keep your balance, even when standing still. I would strongly recommend using a walking stick.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Q:</span> How are these shoes made?<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A:</span> The base of the shoe is a stiletto heel that I'd recommend 4" or higher for a more realistic look. I do NOT use boots nor do I recommend boots for these shoes. The heels are then removed from the shoe and placed on top of a "hoof structure". If you plan on making these yourself, you can use many things for your hooves. Wood is a great material because it's easy to work with and cheap to use, but it's not waterproof and will splinter with extended use. I then add straps onto the heels to secure your feet into the shoe and place velcro at the base of the shoe to attach a cover. The covers I use for the shoes are stockings, leggings, or dress socks. I feel these really capture the silhouette and also show the seamless blend of the hoof into your legs. Fur pants are optional, but I do not recommend them at all. The silhouette created from these shoes is very subtle and realistic, and since fur pants cannot be fitted very tightly and since they're relatively thick, they will only destroy the silhouette.<br /><span style="font-style:italic;">I WILL be posting a fully detailed tutorial on ways to make your own hooves in the near future, so keep an eye out!</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Q:</span> How much will you be selling them for?<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A:</span> No less than $200. Sounds expensive, but the materials used are pretty expensive as well as the time it takes to make make it reasonable.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Q:</span> How durable are the hooves?<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A:</span> Rock solid. They're pretty much indestructible. They're impact resistant and water proof, so they won't break during a day at the renaissance fair like many other hoof designs.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Q:</span> If I order a pair, how long will it take you to make them?<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A:</span> I would say around 4-6 weeks. The hoof itself takes the major amount of work to make, detail, and then depending on the material, to cure.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Q:</span> I already have a pair of heels I'd like to use. Can I send them to you so they can be used for my shoes?<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A:</span> Certainly~ Just don't send me any shoes you really like because I will be tearing them apart, haha. Again, for the best effect, you're going to need a shoe with at least a 4" heel. The shoe should fit snugly and it should have a very solid arc support. If you do end up wanting to do this, I will certainly knock some money off the final price.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Q:</span> Where can I wear these shoes?<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A:</span> It all depends on you. I would recommend paved, flat surfaces for walking. If you're using them for a photoshoot and don't plan to do any walking in them, then just so long as you can place both feet on the floor in a somewhat flat position, you should be fine. Paved surfaces are the easiest, carpet is more difficult without being hard, grass is a bit harder but not impossible, rocky or very uneven surfaces are difficult and can be very dangerous, and sand is nearly impossible.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Q:</span> Are these shoes dangerous?<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A:</span> They very well can be, yes. It really depends on where you're wearing them, how well you can compose yourself in them, and the adjustments you make for your body type. If wearing them at a location with paved, flat floors I would say they're safer than wearing them outdoors in a grassy or rocky terrain.<br /><br /><strong>Q:</strong> Do you have any more videos or photos of your hooved shoes?<br /><strong>A:</strong> Yes, I have lots more. I have mostly production pictures of my newer hooves and lots of finished pictures of my very first pair of hooves. I will list them below:<br /><br /><strong>Photos:<br /></strong><a href="http://kanti-kane.deviantart.com/gallery/#/d3g7bkb">Multi-shot photo</a><br /><a href="http://www.cosplay.com/costume/366557/">Ganon Cosplay</a> <br /><a href="http://www.cosplay.com/costume/359237/">Draenei Cosplay</a> <br /><a href="http://www.cosplay.com/costume/357080/">Satyr Cosplay</a><br /><br /><br /><strong>Videos:<br /></strong><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vo3C6iNM5iE&feature=channel_video_title">Hooved Shoes - Walk Test</a><br /><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qoPGzx7Za8&feature=channel_video_title">Draenei</a> - at 2:40<br /><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXuki65OASM">Ganon</a> - at 1:07Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com31tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-42443506093045555522011-08-14T21:50:00.000-07:002011-08-14T23:36:40.161-07:00How to Stud a Leather Jacket<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdjM2Ic1vD-wg6DDP0zVc6KXL5E5LyBAf4xykQAaueqXTqvxYCIAcY0xAXsze7cHRxD8_aHhds7xrKOYKWBYoJTnCgwl8pLnOzDkufxAyWxg2VB-q41imNVTh_xfEfAE7_OmBaD-gQzkU/s1600/Intro.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 207px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdjM2Ic1vD-wg6DDP0zVc6KXL5E5LyBAf4xykQAaueqXTqvxYCIAcY0xAXsze7cHRxD8_aHhds7xrKOYKWBYoJTnCgwl8pLnOzDkufxAyWxg2VB-q41imNVTh_xfEfAE7_OmBaD-gQzkU/s400/Intro.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640943771948206786" /></a>
<br />Got an old boring jacket that could use some sprucing up? Have some article of clothing you wish had some more zing to it, but you're not sure what you could add? Well, studds are a great way to add a nice little something extra to any piece of clothing. Best part is, they're washable and you'll never have to worry about them flaking off :') In this tutorial, I'm going to be studding a leather jacket with the Daft Punk logo.
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<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Materials:</span>
<br />- Jacket
<br />- Refrence picture
<br />- Exacto knife
<br />- Metal tipped throwing darts
<br />- Studs
<br />- Pliers
<br />- Double sided tape
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<br />Total cost estimate: $50
<br />(based off what I had to buy)
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<br />Project Duration Estimate: 4-7 hours
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<br />Many of the things in this tutoral can be found at your local art and craft stores.
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<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Overview:</span>
<br />This tutorial is for adding studs to a piece of clothing. The recommended article in this case, is a jacket. Studding things such as sleeves, pants, or shoes may be difficult since you won't have as much space. Either way, once you stud one thing, it's very similar to stud something else.
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<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">WARNINGS:
<br />An exacto knife is an EXTREMELY sharp knife, and should be handled with EXTREME caution! If you don't feel comfortable using an exacto knife, it can easily be replaced with a pair of scissors.
<br />The steel tipped darts and studs themselves both have very sharp points and if mishandled, they can cause injury. Be careful when handling both!</span>
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<br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Always make sure you read through the entire process before beginning to avoid mistakes and get a general idea of how the project will progress.
<br />Now let's make get started:</span>
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<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXt6Cu7aPrms3PIPNcNptIHkZwepaKZGQurTZdymfUkeOFBiij13IV56UF-wXVJ-zbamEeq3bapGFnGPLtyc07YF5agB7Upel5RFsNNNxLSxNX5RQaHvQLLRqQRqDQwnS9Ap1aNWQ5sWM/s1600/Step+1.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 256px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXt6Cu7aPrms3PIPNcNptIHkZwepaKZGQurTZdymfUkeOFBiij13IV56UF-wXVJ-zbamEeq3bapGFnGPLtyc07YF5agB7Upel5RFsNNNxLSxNX5RQaHvQLLRqQRqDQwnS9Ap1aNWQ5sWM/s320/Step+1.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640943444855332146" /></a>
<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 1: Making your stencil</span>
<br />Now the very first step to this process is making an accurately sized stencil of the design you'd like to studd onto your jacket. Since studding is more difficult and sloppy than tracing or sewing a design on, you're going to want a very accurate stencil so you can get the details perfectly. When you're deciding the size of the stencil, you need to take into account that if it's too small, you won't be able to get some of the details. For this tutorial, I decided to do the daft punk logo. If I had made the logo any smaller, I wouldn't have been able to create the curves of the letters as well, especially since the studs are usually not that small. Take the complexity of your logo into account, along with the size of your actual studs.
<br />Anyway, once you get the logo you'd like, bring your article of clothing and compare the size to it. Try to think about the location of the logo as well. For instance, if it's on the back, don't allow it to get too close to the arms or it won't sit flat on your back and will curve. When you've decided on the size, screenshot the photo and print it out. In my case, the daft punk logo was much to colorful to print out and I didn't want to waste a gallon of ink, so instead, I simply placed a piece of paper over my computer monitor and carefully traced the silhouette, getting as many details and curves as I could. This is a ghetto way to do it, but it works.
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<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8RCEWoCYa5ICyKPsSAQPRncGaMpDI230wYNumS6SCvKZSXu2jfHIXnRYwO9YVh_iMEFSjw7l1sY69JcYKcpNMpQ4VEz75RehrsEbOlgbYmO0g0PVKtIHklXSxSD9WAf3du8fugV0UuPw/s1600/Step+2.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8RCEWoCYa5ICyKPsSAQPRncGaMpDI230wYNumS6SCvKZSXu2jfHIXnRYwO9YVh_iMEFSjw7l1sY69JcYKcpNMpQ4VEz75RehrsEbOlgbYmO0g0PVKtIHklXSxSD9WAf3du8fugV0UuPw/s320/Step+2.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640943359670022642" /></a>
<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 2: Cutting out the stencil</span>
<br />To cut your stencil, you can either choose scissors or an exacto knife. If you're doing the daft punk logo like I am, you're going to want an exacto knife to get all the inside spaces of the letters. If it's a different design, you may be able to use scissors. If you do end up going with the exacto knife, be sure you have some sort of cutting board or cardboard underneath so you don't scratch up the floor, desk, or any other workspace surface you're using.
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<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNs7bKwRt62uRr5T8mBQQgHsCwI_52zC99kagKFM9Cd_4WQI1cA0R0mnKwX91wjcjdu6BPULe3TI9Vbn95Exgo6dd_nry9kDhMh-v51_afzd2KFafQbM4AWHlppxi-VC89aHDGo5OV-YI/s1600/Step+3.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 243px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNs7bKwRt62uRr5T8mBQQgHsCwI_52zC99kagKFM9Cd_4WQI1cA0R0mnKwX91wjcjdu6BPULe3TI9Vbn95Exgo6dd_nry9kDhMh-v51_afzd2KFafQbM4AWHlppxi-VC89aHDGo5OV-YI/s320/Step+3.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640943157375326114" /></a>
<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 3: Tracing the pattern</span>
<br />Now to trace the pattern onto your jacket so that you can follow it while you add the studs. But hold on just a second. Before we mess with the stencil, take your jacket, pants, or whatever surface you'd like to stud and lay it as flat as possible. Take your double-sided tape and apply it to the bottom of your stencil, trying not to let any of the tape interfere with the outline. Once your stencil has tape in enough spots to keep it held down, press it down against the jacket in the position you'd like, making sure it and the jacket are as flat as possible. Once it's in a spot you'd like, trace the outline with a pencil. If you're using leather like I did, don't worry about the pencil marks showing through or staying after you've studded or anything, the pencil literally starts to disappear faster than you can stud, so make sure that you're darkening the lines as you see them beginning to rub off as you progress.
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<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2kMmgayZwCQtnrZidtC4AVl8Adv7dZ9NWrJdVwRelQ0DWu3VGbIq3ZxboJuSva-Rmme4JYljOFVT-y7nWioK5QmyBJ8LL-AhKtQ4vlYV1-31f3afk5ukC6iwovV9rQYg49QZ0b1TQ_Lc/s1600/Step+4.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 231px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2kMmgayZwCQtnrZidtC4AVl8Adv7dZ9NWrJdVwRelQ0DWu3VGbIq3ZxboJuSva-Rmme4JYljOFVT-y7nWioK5QmyBJ8LL-AhKtQ4vlYV1-31f3afk5ukC6iwovV9rQYg49QZ0b1TQ_Lc/s320/Step+4.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640943029848995266" /></a>
<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 4: Adding the Studs</span>
<br />And now for the longest, most tedious step~ Adding the studs. Depending on the material you're studding, this process COULD take much longer. If you're going to be adding studs to cotton, denim, nylon, muslin, polyester, or any other thin fabrics, you may not need to use the darts. Faux leather and leather may require the use of the dart, it depends on the article itself. The thicker the fabric, the more likely you will need to use the dart.
<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhREXKdZOmAGHhvREOxiw2I6iXY9Hs7u8Dslo_lM64VV0qbAy1Z0OTV_s6HswOV_fOyb__KQOlwlOEMyc8vctScXMOAgUV_oOVCGDmAg8cNEP7su2K0DQPb5GinPQG7RyIzkEXab3gNkS0/s1600/studs.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhREXKdZOmAGHhvREOxiw2I6iXY9Hs7u8Dslo_lM64VV0qbAy1Z0OTV_s6HswOV_fOyb__KQOlwlOEMyc8vctScXMOAgUV_oOVCGDmAg8cNEP7su2K0DQPb5GinPQG7RyIzkEXab3gNkS0/s320/studs.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640946363640874354" /></a>
<br />When you look at a stud, you can see that it is essentially a half circle above (usually)4 metal spikes. The stud's spikes have to pierce the fabric completely and then you will need to bend them inward with the pliers. The smaller the pliers you use, the easier this will be. Bend them toward the center of the stud, and then clamp the pliers down onto the spikes so that they point inward towards the inside of the rounded head of the stud. If you're studding a leather jacket as I am, the leather itself is not so hard to pierce as the inside lining is. You have to hold the stud tightly to make sure it pierces both, and then bend the spikes inward.
<br />Sometimes, you may come across a lined area that will have 2 layers of leather, or possibly, your fabric may be too thick for the studs to pierce through by themselves. This is where your dart comes in handy. You're going to need a metal-tipped dart- very important. Take your stud and stab it into the fabric as hard as you can and then remove it. Take your dart and enlarge the small indents that your stud left behind from when you stabbed it. The dart has a fine and sharp enough tip that you will only really need to poke it through to break the fabric. Just a nick for each spike should do it, don't start tearing through. The exacto knife COULD work as well, you will just have to be extremely careful that you don't stab too deep or the knife will slice a large hole that you won't be able to fix. I'd recommend the darts.
<br />Another thing, when it comes to studs, there are several different sizes. The size I went with was 7mm. Depending on how you'd like your jacket to look, you may want to use larger or smaller studs. When looking at my picture, just try to remember I'm a very small girl who's only 5'2 and I have a back that's approximately 13 inches wide, so the studs may appear larger on me. I would recommend 5mm for a small girl such as myself to make the studs appear more as they do on daft punk's actual jacket. For a larger person or a guy, I would say 7mm works pretty well. The smaller the studs or the larger the design, the less you have to worry about losing detail from the design.
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<br />And there you have it!
<br />A spiffy cold-be-mistaken-for-a-brand-new-jacket!
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<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMl1rb2nk486Tq4jciTCO6nznXptNGIg8ga6yFfKfmQ7y0zNigQz2aIxhtXxOvTW5qvirzJJl81zTSn43ifv0Rj8WY3OUaPJioRYmj5xuG5qz9Yl9xdVD2zZ2InQxH-kh9yMB-DlrSP3Q/s1600/Finished.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 284px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMl1rb2nk486Tq4jciTCO6nznXptNGIg8ga6yFfKfmQ7y0zNigQz2aIxhtXxOvTW5qvirzJJl81zTSn43ifv0Rj8WY3OUaPJioRYmj5xuG5qz9Yl9xdVD2zZ2InQxH-kh9yMB-DlrSP3Q/s400/Finished.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640942583782866946" /></a>
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<br />For more information on purchasing jewelery and other props in my tutorials, requesting a custom item, or an idea for a new tutorial, feel free to email me at <span style="font-weight:bold;">Kanti-Kane@hotmail.com</span> (:Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-91372911297912764492011-08-01T18:39:00.000-07:002011-08-01T18:49:15.380-07:00How to turn Diving fins into a Fluke<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ7H3gtgddj6zVqUWbvGxBAkiQK0LirlxFU2uHk4dWQAM0TSHywZesZBU2Rq5_xQFRzp7xwIzAWcTmyS-40_G_GJDsmSToQaWL-q5aJUhbOOplZpTY0nCyMWf_yy-hmwQr2m9tUe9QKuU/s1600/IMG_1296.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ7H3gtgddj6zVqUWbvGxBAkiQK0LirlxFU2uHk4dWQAM0TSHywZesZBU2Rq5_xQFRzp7xwIzAWcTmyS-40_G_GJDsmSToQaWL-q5aJUhbOOplZpTY0nCyMWf_yy-hmwQr2m9tUe9QKuU/s400/IMG_1296.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636067651345548546" /></a><br />Do you have an old pair of diving fins you don't really care for? Are you thinking of getting a monofin but you just don't have the money? In this tutorial, I'm going to teach you how to crop an old or unwanted pair of diving fins into a fluke shape!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0fXTcBNiwASk2aJRtrvhAsgdXpFGG2b1OirUaZZE0QBTePmySOUv4VF3PyIlfSwlUV_i1Y2oFoKyo6pBAXuD68oYw6gyFZgIGfAqlQrIyD-xL-Pn716quXbaP5bKWby9fJakKUCyE5xs/s1600/Materials.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0fXTcBNiwASk2aJRtrvhAsgdXpFGG2b1OirUaZZE0QBTePmySOUv4VF3PyIlfSwlUV_i1Y2oFoKyo6pBAXuD68oYw6gyFZgIGfAqlQrIyD-xL-Pn716quXbaP5bKWby9fJakKUCyE5xs/s320/Materials.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636067844132165426" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Materials</span><br />- Fins<br />- Duct tape<br />- Hot glue<br />- Caulk gun<br />- Liquid nails (weather-proof)<br />- Electric saw<br />- Silver sharpie marker<br /><br />Total cost estimate: $15<br />(based off what I had to buy)<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Currently selling for: $20</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Project Duration Estimate: 2 days</span><br /><br />Everything in this tutorial can be found locally. The liquid nails, duct tape, and hot glue can all be found at your local multipurpose stores.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Overview:</span><br />This tutorial will teach you how to turn an old pair of fins into a nice looking monofin with a fluke-shaped cut. We will be cropping and reattaching the blade of the fin until we get a desired result. Since the finished product will be covered with duct tape and probably not look as pretty as most people would like, I'm going to suggest the use of these fins when using a mermaid tail.<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />WARNINGS: <br />This tutorial calls for the use of electrical tools. When using an electric saw or cutter, it can be extremely dangerous if percautions are not taken. Always wear splash-proof goggles to prevent any debris or dust from the cut to get into your eyes and gloves to prevent any hot plastic or rubber from getting onto your hands and potentially burning them. You should always ask an adult or friend to help you with the tools. If you're unsure how to use them, please ask someone who knows to help you out!<br />Liquid Nails is also a potentially harmful substance. When wet, always use gloves and do not inhale the fumes it releases. Always work in a well ventilated area.</span><br /><br />Always make sure you read through the entire process before beginning to avoid mistakes and get a general idea of how the project will progress.<br />Now let's make get started:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ7QH9_DOGm4iSdDkfHsp7FIBspIiOrOi7G78sM44h0-VZShBPShwWC3Jf5mK3qn7ZaNLcwnMWo_xZ4hh8gGTt-6aTArjico4VhqA4krVXV5TOHDYHGOkM46Z-ieM5T4dGtJpDE6AoCls/s1600/1.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ7QH9_DOGm4iSdDkfHsp7FIBspIiOrOi7G78sM44h0-VZShBPShwWC3Jf5mK3qn7ZaNLcwnMWo_xZ4hh8gGTt-6aTArjico4VhqA4krVXV5TOHDYHGOkM46Z-ieM5T4dGtJpDE6AoCls/s320/1.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636067987911238834" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 1: Test your fins</span><br />A strange way to start the tutorial, however, it's a necessary step. The very first thing you should do before finalizing your choice of fins and deciding to tear them up is to test swimming in them. Swimming in a monofin is much different than swimming with regular fins. The monofin forces your legs together and restricts movement, so it often takes practice to get the swimming part down. Not only that, but regular store-bought monofins are designed so that your legs point straight down, whereas when rigging a pair of fins together often causes your feet to point outwards. The width of the blade of the fin is what causes the outwards slant, so if your blade gets too thick towards the end, it may be too uncomfortable to swim in properly and you may need to try another pair of fins. Testing your fins can tell you alot about how your project is going to turn out, and I find it very necessary. Not only that, but its fun to do anyway!<br />Before we can test the fins, we need to tie them together somehow. Nothing permanent, just a quick tie will do, since we're only testing them out. To do so, we're going to use duct tape. Use the tape to completely circle your fins right below the toes, on top of your feet, and behind your ankles. Layer the tape at least 3 times to make sure it's on nice and tight. Place a couple lines of tape running the length of the inside of both flippers. Check the picture for a nice idea of where to do it. Before you get in the water, make sure the tape holds the fins stiff. There should be no individual movement from either fin, they should be stuck together pretty well. If they survived, reinforce the duct tape with a new layer, and you're ready to move on.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4CyJiXQiVilayqCNteUh0SPJWWOmd7cpsh6NGXBBYL6VCnmuZNuzb6LzSsh5IDxL1MWJLGCBQPyy1DUmup10QCNGvrSLnvS_5BeHw8Z5w_tlHiGDcvC7smBuE3CD_nVoy4xgszLEIPMc/s1600/2.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 193px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4CyJiXQiVilayqCNteUh0SPJWWOmd7cpsh6NGXBBYL6VCnmuZNuzb6LzSsh5IDxL1MWJLGCBQPyy1DUmup10QCNGvrSLnvS_5BeHw8Z5w_tlHiGDcvC7smBuE3CD_nVoy4xgszLEIPMc/s320/2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636068079297380898" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 2: Marking your fins</span><br />Once you're happy with the monofin you've made, it's time to write all over them. I used a silver sharpy marker for my fins and I really liked it, so I'd recommend that. If not, a normal sharpie works too. Now, what we're going to focus on right now, is the inside of the fin. For the fluke shape, the center comes to a curvy V shape, kind of like a { shape. We're going to be looking at the very inside part of the fin, though. Notice how a dolphin's fluke extends out a whole lot on each side. Don't worry about that, we're going to get to it later. So sketch the inward V and mark to the edge without worrying about sketching the tips of either side of the fluke into your fins. <br />HOWEVER, you need to make your mark close enough to the toe area so that you cut off a nice amount of the blade off. Reason being, you're going to need a decent amount of it to re-create the outside of the fluke. Don't worry if your fins look like they're going to be too short, it's more important that we capture the width of the fluke so it'll look more realistic.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDgST_jrFTSR6Q5Pd2r00G7PBhZqSbH5v4SigCID8VeQm0SJiYaIcS6baDWNkJeVzSp3M6sCJVf0sTNmwRsRB08q1PQ-Icvei8ZeGr8qntZeCLljOJu46WbWkSrxJanAvEmLs8sPDkzQI/s1600/3.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 273px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDgST_jrFTSR6Q5Pd2r00G7PBhZqSbH5v4SigCID8VeQm0SJiYaIcS6baDWNkJeVzSp3M6sCJVf0sTNmwRsRB08q1PQ-Icvei8ZeGr8qntZeCLljOJu46WbWkSrxJanAvEmLs8sPDkzQI/s320/3.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636068160023900578" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 3: Cutting the fins</span><br />Now for the tricky part, we need to cut off the excess fin blade. For this, I used an electric hand-saw and it was very tricky. Even with an electric cutting or trimming device, you're still going to have to take it slow so you don't mess up. Try to get as close to your marked lines as possible and make your cuts nice and smooth. Most flippers are either made from plastic or rubber, so chances are, some molten stuff will be flying at you. Wear gloves and goggles for safety and if you can, get someone to hold down the fin still while you cut it, or vise versa. <br />Once you cut out the excess fins, you're going to be re-arranging them to make the length of the fin. It's sort of hard to explain, so I've provided a picture of what I did to mine. Sorry guys, I didn't take any pictures of the process, it was super tedious. It's not perfect, and your fins may be a little different, anyway, so it may take some playing around with. Simply take your excess blade piece and move it along your fin until you see an area you'd like to place it. Trace the area where your fin lies near it so you know where to cut so that it can be attached perfectly next to the fin and then crop off any extra that you need to in order to achieve your shape. I made 2 pairs of fins and I made them both using the excess a total of 2 different times. In other words, I cropped it once, and then I cropped the remainder again. It's just trial and error, really. Just sketch it out and compare it before you actually cut it to prevent mistakes and don't don't DON'T forget to label the pieces of the fins! Label them R for right side, L for left side, TOP for top piece, BOTTOM for bottom piece, etc.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW7i0owuO31ZN1NDDJaQyEGkm7qqBG_6GZG5baxkGHEXcf3daRcg-rh2NMnHeuwkgvHv9eUt7idrFItgBnIVkSnB1MlPj8znUQcC2V0gSY4L9dA_DAHnywntQ79_kosBpq0qvxLKsax8Y/s1600/IMG_1149.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW7i0owuO31ZN1NDDJaQyEGkm7qqBG_6GZG5baxkGHEXcf3daRcg-rh2NMnHeuwkgvHv9eUt7idrFItgBnIVkSnB1MlPj8znUQcC2V0gSY4L9dA_DAHnywntQ79_kosBpq0qvxLKsax8Y/s320/IMG_1149.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636068291895413346" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 4: Attatching the pieces</span><br />Now that you've got all the extra pieces you need to attach, it's time to bond everything together for good. First, we'll attach the actual fins together, then glue on the pieces we cut. Tear the old duct tape from the swim test and attach your fins together with some hot glue down the center of the shoe area and all down the length of the center where the blades touch. The hot glue will not be the only thing holding it together, we just need it for now to ensure that the fins are held together temporarially while our liquid nails dries. Now that your fins are kept together, ready your caulking gun and add some liquid nails to the center areas where the hot glue is. If there is still a large gap inbetween the shoes, work with small layers of liquid nails rather than a large one. A large blob of liquid nails will dry on the outside much quicker than it will on the inside which will result in you thinking it's dry when it's really not and possibly messing it up, or it never actually drying at all since it will never completely cure on the inside of the wad. I've got personal experience on that one. Anyhow, add liquid nails down the center, where the fin blades meet. Next, we need to attach the extra pieces we cut. To do this, use the hot glue in the same fashion. Hot glue is great because it'll hold well and it dries quickly, but it's not the only thing we're using, so don't get scared. If you have a friend, you should REALLY convince them to help you out. Doing this part alone is hard. If you don't have a friend, get your parents or something. Anyway, start attaching pieces on one side at a time. First attach the tip piece that matches the end of your fluke and then add the bottom piece that reinforces it. It's important to make sure that the fluke shape is one solid curve rather than some uneven edges, so it's important to always put that piece on first. Hot glue EVERYTHING in place first, and then allow it to dry for a couple minutes. Once it's dry, set the fin flat on a bucket or table where the fluke piece can hang off the edge. Now, apply the liquid nails over the areas where the pieces are attached and spread it out along both sides of the fins. When the liquid nails dries, it has to be able to grab onto both sides of the fin to hold them well, so just kind of use the tip of the bottle to mix it around. Add liquid nails to every piece that was attached and allow it at least a couple hours to completely dry and cure. Once it's dry, cover the fins with duct tape in the same manner as you did before, over the parts where you slide your feet into the fins and down the center, and add a whole lot of duct tape over the extra pieces you added on as well. Press the duct tape down hard so that it sticks firmly and doesn't crinkle too much. Press down any areas that may stick up or collect water underneath them as well. The duct tape will reinforce our liquid nails and keep it together, so you must do it as well as you can to prevent the fin edges from breaking off. Once you're done, wait a whole day just to be sure that your liquid nails completely cures before our next step.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 5: Test it again!</span><br />And now for final and possibly most fun step. Test out your new fins! Don't test them lightly, either. This could be the best or worst step, but it's completely necessary. Swim in the fins as you would with normal fins, don't be gentle or scared to break them either, swim fast and kick as you would normally. If they do happen to break, then you may have possibly not reinforced them enough and you need to go back and repair them twice as hard so that they don't. What you should be careful of, though, is to bend the edges too much on the floor or walls of the pool. They can bend nicely, but don't slam them on hard surfaces or that might be what actually causes them to break. Just so long as you can swim in them normally, they should be good.\<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l79/_Kanti_/?action=view¤t=Swimtest.mp4"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 239px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizgwJN5HYN0HVpOnDRrN6qCWo6Tojqc8w3-2NN_6WEj-6LoL9Q4HnAD_DTQgMvppzfO646ERQG80fLr7MHcl3zSENuAqDOrjg5DAwwl1nd90R9c6ypCRlT7S_EjMNfLde0_F9zwLpit3U/s400/Swim+test+icon.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636068884410692354" /></a><br />(click the picture for a swim test video!)<br /><br /><br />And there you have it! A nice monofin with a realistic fluke shape! Now all you need is a nice mermaid tail to slip over it!<br /><br />For more information on purchasing jewelery and other props in my tutorials, requesting a custom item, or an idea for a new tutorial, feel free to email me at <span style="font-weight:bold;">Kanti-Kane@hotmail.com</span> (:Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-74065115868245140432011-08-01T01:09:00.000-07:002011-08-01T01:14:47.753-07:00Kanti has a Twitter<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.developmentcorporate.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/twitter-icon.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 350px; height: 350px;" src="http://www.developmentcorporate.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/twitter-icon.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />That's right people. Not really sure why, I was just suggested to get one. I'll be updating progress on tutorials, orders, sales, and anything else I guess I feel like mentioning. It'll probably turn into my "I'm not dead, really, guys" webpage where I can just say stupid stuff all day long.<br /><br />I hope I can get some followers, but I'm sure I'll be expected to actually do something useful before then. So until that time comes, I suppose you all can enjoy the tutorials. They're much more useful anyway.<br /><br />If you feel like messaging, following, tweeting at me, or whatever it is you do on twitter, check out my page <a href="http://twitter.com/#!/KantiKane">here</a>!Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-27979667919061391872011-08-01T00:50:00.000-07:002011-08-01T12:13:51.845-07:00Using Rit Dye on Clothing<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-hEbt4_gqdBi5pF1ecejzZDtOTbwyAjOJY2anXEYSzy-4j6D_EGX-ACx1_maQHLYBmH2dM_RdJFPyRbeLcNimw-U8WmiyJZ31d7-ep95iUyNeKGmOAAj7PWwp1GtD9u6adomMLNBEdfQ/s1600/Intro.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-hEbt4_gqdBi5pF1ecejzZDtOTbwyAjOJY2anXEYSzy-4j6D_EGX-ACx1_maQHLYBmH2dM_RdJFPyRbeLcNimw-U8WmiyJZ31d7-ep95iUyNeKGmOAAj7PWwp1GtD9u6adomMLNBEdfQ/s400/Intro.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635967511397865442" /></a><br /><br />Do you have that old piece of clothing that's looking a bit stale? Do you need a different colored jacket but don't have the money to waste on a new one? Well you can easily make an old piece of clothing look completely different! I'll show you how, using Rit Dye.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Vqi3zoukyZTKqp7Rq4NgqLT-FLCx8gVD9e2YC_t-HGe0bkY1ZkRroiKi7SwIiEkMYfTAyONm88TMFY_oRjQrwP4wVy7M8fepSbICbNBGXFw4wXsq3upv3H0jk78xxv0gDlua7hUsUNQ/s1600/IMG_1277.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Vqi3zoukyZTKqp7Rq4NgqLT-FLCx8gVD9e2YC_t-HGe0bkY1ZkRroiKi7SwIiEkMYfTAyONm88TMFY_oRjQrwP4wVy7M8fepSbICbNBGXFw4wXsq3upv3H0jk78xxv0gDlua7hUsUNQ/s320/IMG_1277.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635791966840441122" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Materials</span><br />- Article of clothing you want to dye<br />- Rit dye<br />- Bucket you don't care for<br />- Large pot (for boiling)<br /><br />Total cost estimate: $2<br />(based off what I had to buy)<br /><br />Project Duration Estimate: 2 hours<br /><br />Everything in this tutorial can be found at your local arts and crafts stores and/or large multipurpose stores.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">WARNINGS:<br />Rit Dye can cause irritation if contact with eyes is made. When handling the dye, wear gloves or refrain from touching eyes while your hands are/could be contaminated. Always wash your hands after handling.<br />We will also be boiling water, so make sure you have some oven mitts for when we transfer the hot water from the pot to the bucket.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Always make sure you read through the entire process before beginning to avoid mistakes and get a general idea of how the project will progress.<br />Now let's make get started:</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL5MSFSMhxhYyxY5AYHk2fS5v5Ub-rHXGRxNJx3UMBB8KQjc3hjZP4-wusR1ORNXn4ldcE7REMGYy3puIKKrcvEVB4EWfa40866bpY9cIys6_qL5e8yE5NaI3VMHIRtQdMhyphenhyphenDbF_99Vew/s1600/IMG_1280.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL5MSFSMhxhYyxY5AYHk2fS5v5Ub-rHXGRxNJx3UMBB8KQjc3hjZP4-wusR1ORNXn4ldcE7REMGYy3puIKKrcvEVB4EWfa40866bpY9cIys6_qL5e8yE5NaI3VMHIRtQdMhyphenhyphenDbF_99Vew/s320/IMG_1280.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635794829696070386" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 1: Boil a large amount of water</span><br />There are many ways to use Rit dye, but for this tutorial, since we have a very large article of clothing (or assuming that you do), we're going to be using a separate bucket to soak it in. For the first step, we need to boil water. The amount of water depends on the article of clothing you're trying to dye. For small items, like gloves or other accessories, you may only want to use half a packet (1/4 a bottle, if using the liquid version) and enough water to suspend the object yet cover it completely. For my jeans, I used a large pot that I assume could carry around 8-10 cups and an entire packet (or half a bottle for the liquid version) of Rit Dye. For now, all we have to worry about is bringing our water to a boil. It may take a while, depending on how much water you have. It took my amount of water about 15 minutes to lightly boil.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivqLqMap0cdw3yzx3OtFE_NNGtO8aN8IEQGw14d9Hz5oVa3KneurxzjKWAaIQOA-5yURb-SxYxCvNMxMKIGmODlkYm0LSDVxqwf9ZHbeJ9M-uWiEt1CYSapDi3QINEu2Lroa_BpGGhcpA/s1600/IMG_1282.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivqLqMap0cdw3yzx3OtFE_NNGtO8aN8IEQGw14d9Hz5oVa3KneurxzjKWAaIQOA-5yURb-SxYxCvNMxMKIGmODlkYm0LSDVxqwf9ZHbeJ9M-uWiEt1CYSapDi3QINEu2Lroa_BpGGhcpA/s320/IMG_1282.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635795072719740082" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 2: Prep your article of clothing</span><br />While you're waiting for your water to come to a boil, you can begin to soak the clothing piece you're going to dye. If you're wondering whether or not you can dye your particular clothing piece, Rit Dye works on almost anything. It can dye plastic, vinyl, leather, faux leather, felt, denum, cotton, webbing, muslin, feathers, and much much more. Either way, to prep the clothing, all you have to do is completely soak it in warm water. Crumple the fabric together and then stretch it apart, making sure the entire piece gets wet. Once it's wet, wring it out lightly and set it aside.<br />Another step you may need to take depends on what you're dying. If you're going to dye from a lighter color to a darker one, you may not need this step. For example, if you're going from a light purple to a dark purple, you will not need to pre-bleach or color-treat your fabric. If you're crossing colors or going from dark to light, you will need to purchase the Rit Color Bleach. I don't remember what it's called exactly, but the process to use it will be the same as using the normal Rit Colors, but you will need to do it before you apply the colors.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPaANC7aTSW8J04ydaZenkK1JeHeCMK1tXxsKLFBftffExE53SFgKaKj3Yt4nlrjrSNXbD1AogGJcS4ejSG8Ic5nM_DMzlr7Q3JuWKSOazwFXnWKiyi8r8NGdiInEatekKw6ZlTIdP2UI/s1600/IMG_1284.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPaANC7aTSW8J04ydaZenkK1JeHeCMK1tXxsKLFBftffExE53SFgKaKj3Yt4nlrjrSNXbD1AogGJcS4ejSG8Ic5nM_DMzlr7Q3JuWKSOazwFXnWKiyi8r8NGdiInEatekKw6ZlTIdP2UI/s320/IMG_1284.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635795176634282114" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 3: Dissolve the Rit Dye</span><br />Once your water has reached a light boil, it's hot enough to take off the stove and transfer into the bucket. Carefully transfer the water, since it is obviously very hot. Once you've done so, pour whatever amount of dye into the bucket and mix it generously for a couple of minutes, making sure that the salt/liquid completely mixes into the water. It's important that you mix the dye into the bath before you put the clothing so that the clothes dye evenly. If you pour the dye into the mixture while the clothes are inside, there's a chance that you will get a blotchy coloring rather than an even coat of color.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbwithrZJJKrqSscsymSYpF57PViv2zSD-hevOkD8sf11E9qVnbSjyjTtln3bCBPxL2TEHV4swGxxADI8p6PryVlkyovh2akQ76QJ6-NNYFoFoxXXV5zMtnApheKmDDcQCQu138LpOvWw/s1600/IMG_1285.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbwithrZJJKrqSscsymSYpF57PViv2zSD-hevOkD8sf11E9qVnbSjyjTtln3bCBPxL2TEHV4swGxxADI8p6PryVlkyovh2akQ76QJ6-NNYFoFoxXXV5zMtnApheKmDDcQCQu138LpOvWw/s320/IMG_1285.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635795292326546738" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 4: Add your clothing</span><br />Aaand finally, put those suckers in the bath. Don't throw them in or anything, calm down. Gently set the clothing into the bucket and slowly poke it underwater little by little with either a stirring rod of some sort (I used a random PVC pipe), or your hands. If you use your hands, you should wear gloves, as the dye will probably soak into your skin (also the water is still pretty damn hot). While you're pressing the fabric down into the bottom of the bucket, bubbles will tend to escape from inside the clothing and may cause some splashing. Make sure you do this step inside a sink, tub, or outside. Somewhere your parents won't throw a fit if you get dye on the floor. Once you've got it all underwater, let the clothing soak for about 5 minutes and then come back to stir the clothing to a different position. Continue stirring the clothing in 5-10 minute intervals, changing the position and making sure all crevices or folds in the clothing get opened and soaked. The instructions on the Rit Dye specify to soak the clothing for 30 minutes to an hour, however, I let it soak for about 2 hours total. I'm a bit paranoid, though, so you can follow the packet if you wish.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix2HYNoKv9h-3BUSQNES64xb56cnLpnL8f9qhyphenhyphenP0ffEZ-BZgP8rHH5553dErMsZJEsxI2GsEPAlv778EG5DtvG_ZQT9T-e_9igZkR2oHn15aVo9ghFYpyTnN_Hu1zfFxACEREy-c1VPGo/s1600/IMG_1289.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix2HYNoKv9h-3BUSQNES64xb56cnLpnL8f9qhyphenhyphenP0ffEZ-BZgP8rHH5553dErMsZJEsxI2GsEPAlv778EG5DtvG_ZQT9T-e_9igZkR2oHn15aVo9ghFYpyTnN_Hu1zfFxACEREy-c1VPGo/s320/IMG_1289.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635795426511284802" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 5: Rinsing the article</span><br />After an hour or two (however long you decided to wait), find an area where you can dump out the excess water. If you're outside, you can probably dump it in the crass, if you're inside, you can try to put it down the drain, but it will stain if it's not rinsed off immediately. Where-ever you decide to rinse it off, simply run water over the piece until the water that drips off it is clear and not colored. This WILL take a while, so be patient. What I would recommend is taking it outside and hosing it down or leaving the clothing in the bucket, filling it with water and replacing the water as it becomes black. Either way you decide, simply make sure it is as rinsed as possible.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixSsJzWj013RGn_vnqcVHU4cQsx0bcks7lLakPi6PDFnbvN30Y6wNHZpnwEFEKddvMmL59-DJg96fL2SmNZs6ezaI3gYhWemhlXsOFrgJZeL-BGMjQPKxwMKblkqHnw6vgxo2KGvkNZi4/s1600/IMG_1291.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixSsJzWj013RGn_vnqcVHU4cQsx0bcks7lLakPi6PDFnbvN30Y6wNHZpnwEFEKddvMmL59-DJg96fL2SmNZs6ezaI3gYhWemhlXsOFrgJZeL-BGMjQPKxwMKblkqHnw6vgxo2KGvkNZi4/s320/IMG_1291.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635795522204984754" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 6: Air dry or Dryer</span><br />Once your piece is rinsed, you have the choice of placing it in the dryer or letting it hang dry. Putting the clothing in the dryer will prevent it from wrinkling up, but clothing such as leather, and faux leather should be left to hang dry. Also, if you ARE working with faux leather or leather, hang the clothing to dry, and pat it down with a damp sponge or cloth every 15 minutes or so. Sometimes, a film of greasy looking liquid will surface on the faux leather but it can simply be whiped off. If not, anything you wouldn't put in the dryer should not be put in the dryer for this step. <br /><br />And there you have it!<br />A cheap and easy way to spice up an old piece of clothing or just change up that one piece that isn't quite to your liking. Hope this helped!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXakqdvx6yJqdlP7Tkkg0zZO7pmNdoa1aL4MIanf56WIC8Uln7Pe48eBlfGkRa3zONs82EXLaW4Wkl3OMQJpU3Z_S9hQAgrZog1qJYDD9KvrkwvCuKL8qzj_N7da9j2qNz8M4E6nFxodY/s1600/Final.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXakqdvx6yJqdlP7Tkkg0zZO7pmNdoa1aL4MIanf56WIC8Uln7Pe48eBlfGkRa3zONs82EXLaW4Wkl3OMQJpU3Z_S9hQAgrZog1qJYDD9KvrkwvCuKL8qzj_N7da9j2qNz8M4E6nFxodY/s320/Final.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635967590839314114" /></a><br /><br />For more information on purchasing jewelery and other props in my tutorials, requesting a custom item, or an idea for a new tutorial, feel free to email me at <span style="font-weight:bold;">Kanti-Kane@hotmail.com</span> (:Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-84035379306644881902011-07-31T21:04:00.000-07:002011-08-01T01:28:41.956-07:00How to Adjust Scale on a Pepakura Model<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpjRa5K5MWC8BfrmZvgZlcJQNIpzoyWIu8MPpi9RHRqLOtLlErJEbGWR6bDxJUbD6HRljDvni32lahscSZsYnL2aCpFcPe-gkI8q2IrbNgYEF9mvXAM3K4nfvZsLMyv_OYWyfrIxF0k04/s1600/Intro.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 168px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpjRa5K5MWC8BfrmZvgZlcJQNIpzoyWIu8MPpi9RHRqLOtLlErJEbGWR6bDxJUbD6HRljDvni32lahscSZsYnL2aCpFcPe-gkI8q2IrbNgYEF9mvXAM3K4nfvZsLMyv_OYWyfrIxF0k04/s400/Intro.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635737105217195090" /></a><br /><br />Now this tutorial is going to be something a bit different than the usual. In this tutorial, I'm going to show you how to properly scale a wearable pepakura model so that it will fit you perfectly! <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY2-ME0BtTpFvTzcBZcB01wVCsgFmgYqWgCiKUb1-bbge02_7Ciq7HJA8-32UvP8ey4CS644uwk_pA3_JoxYlBbK1IBkqT5Xa0dhc_VWaMeea4RNv2x0f1PeaKSYa8WUsn1_dWClPXO_8/s1600/Materials.png"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 251px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY2-ME0BtTpFvTzcBZcB01wVCsgFmgYqWgCiKUb1-bbge02_7Ciq7HJA8-32UvP8ey4CS644uwk_pA3_JoxYlBbK1IBkqT5Xa0dhc_VWaMeea4RNv2x0f1PeaKSYa8WUsn1_dWClPXO_8/s320/Materials.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635736968261215202" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Materials</span><br />- Pepakura Designer 3<br />- Pepakura model<br />- Fullbody reference picture<br />- Half a brain<br /><br />Total cost estimate: $40<br />(based off what I had to buy)<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Currently selling for: $10</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Project Duration Estimate: 5 minutes!</span><br /><br />Everything can be found online for this tutorial<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Overview:</span><br />This is a very quick and easy process by which you can re-size pepakura models to fit your body. It can be done with most models.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">WARNINGS:</span><br />There is nothing dangerous about this tutorial<br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Always make sure you read through the entire process before beginning to avoid mistakes and get a general idea of how the project will progress.<br />Now let's make get started:</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVsGqhR_42MZngTAcw6BrBsmoPfVPSFxh_dkSDTkltdyJFbWr0gAYbL38a3UzbiGmbRMEA7vNsyDgaEaPb7N8OJqXFBzcHwzt0JU7c2ozc3BFp4WXCwFlRTmUa7Sqy_8A93oYcf8vbbIA/s1600/Scale+ex.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 238px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVsGqhR_42MZngTAcw6BrBsmoPfVPSFxh_dkSDTkltdyJFbWr0gAYbL38a3UzbiGmbRMEA7vNsyDgaEaPb7N8OJqXFBzcHwzt0JU7c2ozc3BFp4WXCwFlRTmUa7Sqy_8A93oYcf8vbbIA/s320/Scale+ex.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635736571050296178" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 1: Getting a reference picture</span><br />The very first step in this tutorial is to find a full-body reference picture of the character who wears the certain piece, or anyone who you'd like the ratio to be similar to. In other words, I'm going to be doing a couple Daft Punk helmets, so my best bet would be to find a fullbody photo of Thomas and Guy-Manuel. However, if I couldn't find a fullbody photo of them, it's alright for me to use another picture of someone wearing an outfit of theirs if I like the size of the helmet. Do NOT use paintings or drawings, as good as they may be, they are probably not as accurate when it comes to anatomy (not to diss anyone's art or anything). I managed to find a nice, fullbody picture of both Guy-Manuel and Thomas, so I lucked out.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4X3c9mbQ6QhDo0AKQhYXaNsirONGn9NDvpTLj962RyFM0wTSqJspyP7ZRikzjzB21_bnLO6BDQl_EBlJpDyzk1X8k81-Tk-9hGHjf2DoyeiweKrfkVarX4CZQ4dByP3Ee2lv0XUK-X0U/s1600/Scale+measurments.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 238px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4X3c9mbQ6QhDo0AKQhYXaNsirONGn9NDvpTLj962RyFM0wTSqJspyP7ZRikzjzB21_bnLO6BDQl_EBlJpDyzk1X8k81-Tk-9hGHjf2DoyeiweKrfkVarX4CZQ4dByP3Ee2lv0XUK-X0U/s320/Scale+measurments.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635736395466359666" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 2: Taking measurements</span><br />Now this is a very crucial step. It's not at all difficult, but it must be done as accurately as possible to get the best results in your overall ratio. Take a ruler (preferably a bendable one or a measuring tape) and measure the height of the model you've found the picture for in cm. Then, measure their headpiece, chestpiece, legpiece, or whatever else you want to size (in cm as well). Once you've gotten both measurements, all that's left is to take your own height down and convert it to cm. If you don't know your own height to the inch, then you're going to need to take your measurement. For this, you're probably going to need someone to help you out and hold the tape or ruler while you stand as straight as you can. One trick I like to do when I'm alone is to stand up straight and use a pencil to make a very light mark along a door or wall and then just measure the wall up to that point. There are many ways to do it, just make sure it's accurate! Once you've gotten your measurement, you're going to need to convert it to cm. Reason being, pepakura model measurements go by mm. You can either take your measurement and do the math yourself (an inch is approximately 2.54 centimeters) or just type it into google. Once you get the cm, just move the decimal place over once to the right and you've converted it to mm.<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />Step 3: Doing the math</span><br />Now there's endless ways you can go about doing the calculations to get the magic number you're going to need for your model, but we're going to go into a couple simple methods I find are easy to grasp the concept of. If you can understand the meaning of the equations you're doing, then you won't even have to remember any formulas and it will just come naturally. That's right, we're going to be doing MATH. That stuff is useful? Apparently so. <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ZYrj3iP9uToIBxUgZvVBRztxDKOrgcePwVw6Naybk1-aHzIlForyq358Ctb3yBAJpyQPbOzac4FuWCmdcTip1q-n-PuNA2DC-fTHusA4S13MeMkSXaxkLS806WDL-bfJLuzd6wQ96gM/s1600/Scale+measurments1.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 190px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ZYrj3iP9uToIBxUgZvVBRztxDKOrgcePwVw6Naybk1-aHzIlForyq358Ctb3yBAJpyQPbOzac4FuWCmdcTip1q-n-PuNA2DC-fTHusA4S13MeMkSXaxkLS806WDL-bfJLuzd6wQ96gM/s320/Scale+measurments1.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635735904724659842" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Method 1</span><br />When it comes to doing the first method, everything is laid out in the actual problem, but grasping the meaning may be a bit difficult. You essentially have to think of it as finding a missing number using ratios. It's very simple and many of you have probably learned it before. Simply take your 3 known numbers and arrange them into a ratio problem (which has 2 fractions set equal to each other). Set both demoninators to the same aspect (person height) and then the numerators to the same aspect (helmet height) and then set them equal to each other. Cross-multiply the factors together and then divide to seclude the x term. In this method, your x term will be equal to the height or your helmet. I've included a picture that explains the method in more detail, along with an example.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbF2LdFWII6gb6Hnv7oQxgfOK_roQSkfAK8HNmDUBqIeqgcl4MUdGWlBDbSRUG2DOoT48KKTmS3s-FjE8fMw7NGqb_KOtfKLYduVS9hNNjdUh6LBvyl0cI7ow_a4Qh-QX3lzf27hfsnWc/s1600/Scale+measurments1.5.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 131px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbF2LdFWII6gb6Hnv7oQxgfOK_roQSkfAK8HNmDUBqIeqgcl4MUdGWlBDbSRUG2DOoT48KKTmS3s-FjE8fMw7NGqb_KOtfKLYduVS9hNNjdUh6LBvyl0cI7ow_a4Qh-QX3lzf27hfsnWc/s320/Scale+measurments1.5.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635735748923453042" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Method 2</span><br />The second method is a bit easier to do, but it requires an extra step. Typical math, it's never just easy lol. But it really is, don't get discouraged. In the second method, we are trying to find a factor by which everything is multiplied rather than the exact measurement. In other words, your model that we measured from the picture is obviously much smaller than a real person. So when we tackle our second model, we are solving to find a number that can be multiplied to our very small helmet measurement and cause it to become a very realistic size. For example, if I'm 50 inches tall and I measure a helmet that's only 2 inches and a figure that's 5, then I can try to solve for the certain NUMBER rather than my exact measurement. So I can look at it like, how many times would I have to multiply 5 inches to make it 50 inches? well, 10 of course. So then you take the 10 and multiply it by 2 and you have your exact helmet size. I've drawn a picture and explained this method as well.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Hcx_WiPRu_FZ227DWFt0v5XOoffRtJ5VhWuBxe09WpxFt5LaRrKCXSjj8SVvCIiDGHkOSKchY05tfBwtSQKpLfo-klF86Sc8QLKTfB9Dj3k_XfsqqxZbDix_XNRTHtwEGHRnTwGUu6k/s1600/Scale+measurments2.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 219px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Hcx_WiPRu_FZ227DWFt0v5XOoffRtJ5VhWuBxe09WpxFt5LaRrKCXSjj8SVvCIiDGHkOSKchY05tfBwtSQKpLfo-klF86Sc8QLKTfB9Dj3k_XfsqqxZbDix_XNRTHtwEGHRnTwGUu6k/s320/Scale+measurments2.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635735489968475954" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 4: Scaling the model</span><br />Now for the quickest step. To scale your model, all you have to do is open your pepakura designer and edit the information. Here is where things may get pricey. Yes, unfortunately you have to pay for pepakura designer, and that's the piece of software you need to re-scale models. It's around $40, but it's useful if you're going to be making models. It's also pretty imperative since most models are made extremely large in the event that their designers KNOW that they're going to be used to make actual props. If you're not sure if your model needs to be resized or not, check the actual file. Most of the time, the designer will have a note that says "Check scale before printing" or something along those lines. If not, simply check the scale yourself. Checking the scale can be done with the free Pepakura Designer software, but you will not be able to save any work or changes made to the model. The models I used had to be re-sized, and unfortunately, I didn't know until I was halfway done with the damn papercraft. So anyhow, either dish out the money and buy your own software or try to find someone who has it already and trick them into doing it for you. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">If requested, I will be willing to re-scale and print your model on cardstock for $10 (shipping included). I'll even do the math for you ;) Simply send me an email if you're interested.</span><br /><br />If not, you'll just have to try to get by with what you can :')<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS9NU1qhKcy08cycTQx96hww9bbkWCosnEZkHVsXyfLl9qHInX1COOUSL6Ok2vDmci7VtseP5m7REYunhJoumpS1m4rs85rmbcy1JmRaLVia7BO3XwjDZ5afxlldvnB35lr-CFxDTt2HI/s1600/Scale+measurments3.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 206px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS9NU1qhKcy08cycTQx96hww9bbkWCosnEZkHVsXyfLl9qHInX1COOUSL6Ok2vDmci7VtseP5m7REYunhJoumpS1m4rs85rmbcy1JmRaLVia7BO3XwjDZ5afxlldvnB35lr-CFxDTt2HI/s320/Scale+measurments3.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635735656941010018" /></a><br /><br />So anyway, let's get to actually programming it into the system. In Pepakura Designer, on the top right of the screen, open your 2D menu and scroll down to 'change scale', and then 'scale factor'. A popup will appear and it will show you the current measurements of the model. I have Pepakura Designer 3, and it shows up in mm (hence why I said it may be necessary to convert to mm earlier). Change the HEIGHT of the model to the measurement in mm you got. *Hint* it should be in the hundreds, not the tens. If it's a 2 digit number, you probably need to add another zero.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQBLAgVnxtgpeCajXR7KhMlwSBWQ7KopkI3HEwbPkqvrFphKAH8OFkAYUgJvn-y8SczVbmmvSHi4c6uaI0AlCYQCTv3FwY5Bm_9x6YhgsPHLhEis-U2y6JcvtbnM-PQqU_EBd4Y5MljNY/s1600/Scale+measurments4.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 192px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQBLAgVnxtgpeCajXR7KhMlwSBWQ7KopkI3HEwbPkqvrFphKAH8OFkAYUgJvn-y8SczVbmmvSHi4c6uaI0AlCYQCTv3FwY5Bm_9x6YhgsPHLhEis-U2y6JcvtbnM-PQqU_EBd4Y5MljNY/s320/Scale+measurments4.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635735298914458642" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 5: Moving the print arrangement</span> <br />Once you've rescaled your model, the printing arrangement will shrink and cause the models to be scattered across page boarders. Simply click and drag the pieces to new pages and make sure than none run off the edge of the page. Don't forget or you'll have a big ol mess once you print your scattered pieces.<br /><br />And there you have it! A nicely scaled model that's bound to fit you like a glove!<br /><br />For more information on purchasing jewelery and other props in my tutorials, requesting a custom item, or an idea for a new tutorial, feel free to email me at <span style="font-weight:bold;">Kanti-Kane@hotmail.com</span> (:Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-83489787113051677242011-06-12T02:33:00.001-07:002012-02-26T17:12:49.513-08:00Majora's Mask Tutorial<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoC_XnIwslQ6x9uGiv56Jya2HuT4glV6bVLY2M8pU_JNB4gHgP0NC5oIH1E44j4m5C0V4R7xXKBgTuuAI9ivfVnKFK6e_8ADUbkwqlNBiCGGA0nAA2XfC6eXSlYUxjpfR-Ibq6JtkLOEw/s1600/Intro.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 179px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoC_XnIwslQ6x9uGiv56Jya2HuT4glV6bVLY2M8pU_JNB4gHgP0NC5oIH1E44j4m5C0V4R7xXKBgTuuAI9ivfVnKFK6e_8ADUbkwqlNBiCGGA0nAA2XfC6eXSlYUxjpfR-Ibq6JtkLOEw/s400/Intro.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617267128758299970" /></a><br /><br />Seriously, who doesn't like Majora's Mask? Do you really need a reason to make it? You actually need a reason to NOT make it. Let's just jump right into the tutorial!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_It8CyHErFTryf771asqqtKvqsRocnlDFVRaqmvBi6DMVckEslbIWu-nN0ns-7rNg4nQDdq2E_WdCWfJKHB8zv8A5hDd3nlcNF1Hy80WKbwNnqhYJKQ5xljRZHzCSkI7fFLnZw3zWwvQ/s1600/Materials.png"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 186px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_It8CyHErFTryf771asqqtKvqsRocnlDFVRaqmvBi6DMVckEslbIWu-nN0ns-7rNg4nQDdq2E_WdCWfJKHB8zv8A5hDd3nlcNF1Hy80WKbwNnqhYJKQ5xljRZHzCSkI7fFLnZw3zWwvQ/s320/Materials.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617264976087279090" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Materials:</span><br />- Wood Hardener<br />- Acrylic paints<br />- Sealant spray<br />- Majora's Mask Papercraft<br />- Tape<br />- Celluclay<br />- Flour<br />- Elastic cord<br />- Water<br />- Salt<br />- Sharpie marker<br />- Scissors<br />- Newspaper<br />- Plastic wrap<br />- Large bucket<br />- Funnel<br /><br />Total Cost Estimate: $60<br />(based off what I had to buy)<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Currently Selling For: $70</span><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />Project Duration Estimate: 7-8 days</span><br /><br />Many of these materials can be purchased at nearby arts and crafts stores, even Walmart.<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />Overview:</span><br />This is a long process that requires several hours in between steps to allow the materials time to dry. This tutorial creates a heavy, delicate mask with protruding spikes. It's unwearable, and eyeholes should not be made due to it's thickness.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">WARNINGS:<br />Chemicals used in this tutorial may be harmful when not used correctly. <br />WOOD HARDENER is a very dangerous and flammable chemical. The fumes it gives off are harmful if inhaled. Always work in highly ventilated areas and wear gloves and eye protection when dealing with it while it is wet! If you're under 16, get an adult's help before you continue. Remember to ALWAYS read the warning labels on products you are unfamiliar with.</span><br /><span style="font-style:italic;"><br />Always make sure you read through the entire process before beginning to avoid mistakes and get a general idea of how the project will progress.<br />Now let's make get started:</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZoJc5YU5yAaBy75McC0O_PG9lUjzeTTjpllSUWhyEzfgSw1o278QGoEheuh0dELjM9cc7rSaSNVD0VPisbfxhDKyupGzvi8AjNEweaiSL1atxqWPNGYDpc76tHeUkopbFrJFAUnx4jb4/s1600/Step+1.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZoJc5YU5yAaBy75McC0O_PG9lUjzeTTjpllSUWhyEzfgSw1o278QGoEheuh0dELjM9cc7rSaSNVD0VPisbfxhDKyupGzvi8AjNEweaiSL1atxqWPNGYDpc76tHeUkopbFrJFAUnx4jb4/s320/Step+1.png" border="0" http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifalt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617264840900245490" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 1: Making the Papercraft</span><br />Unlike my previous paper mache mask tutorial, this one starts off a bit differently. Since the shape of this mask is unique, we can't use the foam mannequin head to make our shape for us. In this case, we will be using a papercraft to get the general size and shape. A very nice papercraft of a life-sized version of Majora's Mask is available <a href="http://papercraft.wikidot.com/papercraft:majora-s-mask">here</a>. The papercraft is a bit annoying to assemble, but you should be able to do it in under 10 minutes. Use the tape to fasten the pieces together. At the end, do not attach the backpiece of the papercraft. Instead, leave it open. Also, don't attach the horns. We will add those at the very end. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZjpaHLlRXQvrRhcECzgazk8_g8-QiSYsouHCalQ8cWk_uED0nqsI9Xz-kM7RGXlTbprKAmCGYxqKCabJ78ohd7I3HMFeeAAyMsQjCqcYDyj9jZrqYgiBg-C3ZFpW6R6K7Ys1XDeuEt3k/s1600/Step+1.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 210px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZjpaHLlRXQvrRhcECzgazk8_g8-QiSYsouHCalQ8cWk_uED0nqsI9Xz-kM7RGXlTbprKAmCGYxqKCabJ78ohd7I3HMFeeAAyMsQjCqcYDyj9jZrqYgiBg-C3ZFpW6R6K7Ys1XDeuEt3k/s320/Step+1.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617268608573179586" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 2: Mixing the Paper mache</span><br />This paper mache recipe is a very simple one and consists of even parts water and flour (and a teaspoon of salt for some reason).<br />In my previous mask tutorial, I used 2 cups of water and 2 cups of flour to make 5 masks, but for this mask, you may need less. Start off with only 1 cup of each and add a bit of salt for the recipe. So you'll do:<br />- 1 cup flour<br />- 1 cup water<br />- 1 teaspoon salt<br />Mix these together with a large spoon until the mixture becomes pasty. Try to get rid of any balls or layers of flour that may compress and not get mixed in properly. Once you get it all mixed up, get some newspaper and begin cutting it into long, thin strips. You may use scissors, but a papercutter saves time and makes the newspaper strips much more even.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0FAZcc6vybQlECbkw4_WMXmJSSOTd8fTGvK6ySeDXLdjq4EdjRqZn_udRm1rR5rHaUpk1uGvhOStL8Xjtg1BOPB6Jm3E4fMiE-b4FVJdH_aSloefz-uhmDDcwdz4m-2d04PqoQOShGk/s1600/Step+2.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 239px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0FAZcc6vybQlECbkw4_WMXmJSSOTd8fTGvK6ySeDXLdjq4EdjRqZn_udRm1rR5rHaUpk1uGvhOStL8Xjtg1BOPB6Jm3E4fMiE-b4FVJdH_aSloefz-uhmDDcwdz4m-2d04PqoQOShGk/s320/Step+2.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617264677024767138" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 3: Adding newspaper paper mache</span><br />Now here's the fun part. You have to be careful for this step, I found it rather aggravating and tricky. You must layer the paper mache on the papercraft WITHOUT wetting it excessively. If you apply too much mache, the papercraft will not be able to hold its shape and will melt. A good way of starting off is to begin with the inside of the mask. Place the mask face-down and use the curve of it to your advantage. Only apply ONE layer of mache that's very very lightly dipped in the flour mixture and allow it to dry. When dry, flip the mask over and repeat to the other side with just ONE layer. Once you've got at least 2 layers on each side, let it dry completely. <br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 4: Soaking in wood hardener</span><br />Now that you're mask is dry, it should have SOME sort of shape to it. If there is no shape or the mask is way off from what it should be, you should probably scrap this mask and repeat the steps until you get a better one. Once you dip the mask into the wood hardener, there's not much you can do to alter the shape. BUT assuming you did a good job (hopefully you did), you can begin soaking it into the wood hardener. <br />Wood hardener is a very strong smelling liquid, so you should work with it outdoors. To soak the mask in the wood hardener effectively, we will use a large bucket (that fits the mask inside nicely) and a funnel. Hold the mask on the inside of the bucket and slowly pour the wood hardener on top of it. Soak the mask thoroughly, getting every inch of it wet. Once you're certain you've got it right, pull the mask out and place it somewhere to dry completely. Next, place the funnel on top of the wood hardener's container and funnel the liquid that you poured into the bucket back into the container. That way you won't waste it. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqJvhyk5s8yX4KJ4Amw6lpuV2LJ9u5pboHz9l8SX9hf-6tvm-bxp0nhbhWBkAkwHflnfXan7cFWCJyf38-B1N3TFrQWNkGhwh0VdroU_g7ZHQZWN5s0ZRoyoB41-_kJUcfVRW7nJnc0RQ/s1600/Step+3.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 249px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqJvhyk5s8yX4KJ4Amw6lpuV2LJ9u5pboHz9l8SX9hf-6tvm-bxp0nhbhWBkAkwHflnfXan7cFWCJyf38-B1N3TFrQWNkGhwh0VdroU_g7ZHQZWN5s0ZRoyoB41-_kJUcfVRW7nJnc0RQ/s320/Step+3.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617264608890426834" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 5: Shaping the mask</span><br />Once the mask is dry, you can now coat it with many layers of mache without worrying too much. You'll still want to let the first few layers dry completely before adding more so you don't stress the mask out. This step is looong. It will probably take around 2 days to completely finish. Not only will you be layering the paper mache along the mask, but you will need to crumple pieces of newspaper into certain areas of the mask to raise them. For example, the eyes of the mask should bugg out and the "mouth" area needs to be elevated while the "forehead" area needs to sink down. Since we used the papercraft, it should have already captured some of the mask's geography, but much more needs to be added to properly see it. Folding and crumpling several newspapers in the areas that need to be elevated and then smoothing them over with newspaper strips is a nice way to get these surfaces. Once you're done with this step, make sure to sketch a quick Majora's Mask face on the surface to decide where you want the eyes to be. It'll be important for the next step.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRfnI8jBRhZ9HRWXszTPbDzagIGvwapAhaC74rYfGJAQ2P_fbndoIr3RXCkYiZhqNQ-uEoiPuaVgUgMvS8qnR3TTgBLu2LDhyHOoTGYlrYCB5SmEjDpt0QICB3naBYopK75pk3yVfv2JU/s1600/Step+4.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 249px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRfnI8jBRhZ9HRWXszTPbDzagIGvwapAhaC74rYfGJAQ2P_fbndoIr3RXCkYiZhqNQ-uEoiPuaVgUgMvS8qnR3TTgBLu2LDhyHOoTGYlrYCB5SmEjDpt0QICB3naBYopK75pk3yVfv2JU/s320/Step+4.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617264521175545842" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 6: Adding the celluclay</span><br />Once you're happy with the basic shape of the mask and you have some elevated surfaces and depressions, you can add the celluclay! Celluclay is a papermache type clay that's kind of chunky since there are newspaper bits inside it. The box has instructions on how much water to add in relation to clay, but I just kept adding water until I had a workable clay. You probably need to add more water than you expected. If you don't add enough, the clay dries out quickly. Anyway, knead it for about 5 minutes before you start using it, that way, you'll get some of the bumpyness of the newspaper bits worked into the mixture. Once you're tired of it, just apply it onto the mask. I avoided the eye parts (I hope you drew them) and just added a nice, even layer of clay to the surface of the mask. For the eyes, I made two half-spheres and placed them where the eyes should be so they would be elevated much more than anything else on the mask. Also, to aid me in painting. Once you add an even layer of clay, wet your hands and smooth it out as much as you can. Sometimes you can only do so much and there may be some bumps left over, but it's nothing hindering of the final piece. Once finished, let the mask dry completely. I'd give it overnight just to be sure. Once it is dry again, you should re-mark the eyes and doodle on some other features to aid in painting.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBzHM3j6zhAIbgnfQnbX_nf1MY0pGP7_8Uz7QTpgChxEwDnSDAD5efECZyqjRlAvtGHWfh4MurYQvG_d5Z_M49rZdIgdAlllXZM4JotGlGEC-SMfceMmPlqrQE6Vj5jIaLhTfMUUtnT-I/s1600/Step+5.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 264px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBzHM3j6zhAIbgnfQnbX_nf1MY0pGP7_8Uz7QTpgChxEwDnSDAD5efECZyqjRlAvtGHWfh4MurYQvG_d5Z_M49rZdIgdAlllXZM4JotGlGEC-SMfceMmPlqrQE6Vj5jIaLhTfMUUtnT-I/s320/Step+5.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617264459144783522" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 7: Painting the Mask</span><br />This can be the most exciting or the most stressful part. Painting the mask will require alot of patience, especially since Majora's Mask has so much detail. For paint, I went to my local craft store and brought a reference picture from the game to compare the colors. The purple and the red gave me the most trouble, and I had to mix a few colors to get them to the right tint, but the other colors are pretty straightforward. Remember, when you switch colors, alwayysss let the previous color dry completely. Acrylic paints are great because they dry in minutes and you can get painting done pretty quickly, but sometimes fabric paints can also be considered multipurpose paints and they have nice pigments and go on darker in less coats. The paint you use is really up to you. Also, don't stress if you mess up. The great thing about paint is that you can just let it dry and paint right over it. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR1jyrJpBpGPqewmTUGXAJVXW2T_3fa4T9Q8N_K9UffsQZvpLoQPhkroTY5NFxXVEw6-qg8tVslTL_YQ0B3EZ3M621ASCM4E-K7EDBqVNKnX_xNnS-VG6qpk2vQjnrtR2k-eEzuxUk1Cs/s1600/Step+6.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 242px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR1jyrJpBpGPqewmTUGXAJVXW2T_3fa4T9Q8N_K9UffsQZvpLoQPhkroTY5NFxXVEw6-qg8tVslTL_YQ0B3EZ3M621ASCM4E-K7EDBqVNKnX_xNnS-VG6qpk2vQjnrtR2k-eEzuxUk1Cs/s320/Step+6.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617264385820919138" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 8: Making the horns</span><br />Now that your mask is nice and painted, all that's left is to make and attach the horns. Using air-dry clay is nice, since it's usually very lightweight and cheap. I used paperclay, which is kind of annoying to work with, but it's pretty sturdy and very light. For this step, simply cut the clay into even sections and make cone shapes. When you're done shaping the horn, find the position on the mask you'd like it to be, and press the bottom against the mask so it fits into position nicely. This way, you shape the bottom so it can attach easier. I made each horn a different size so that I remembered which ones were positioned where. The two top horns were the easiest to tell, since they were long and skinny. As for the others, make each horn a bit different to make it easier, if not, just place them onto the table near the place on the mask they should be so you don't forget. After you're done, wait for the paperclay to completely dry. Once it is, paint all the horns in a nice yellow color and allow it to dry. After that, select the horns on each side of the mask (3 pairs) and paint the tips lightly with red, blue, and green. To give the fade effect, simply give your brush a touch of paint and dab it on your hand or a piece of paper until it begins to fade, then brush it lightly along the horns.<br />Once you're done painting, all you have to do is glue them into place! I used a hot glue gun and it worked pretty well.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 9: Sealing your mask</span><br />Once your paint is dry, it's important that you seal the mask. You can find sealant spray at most craft stores and it's a very nice step to keep your mask looking good. A couple coats of the seal should be sprayed on the front and back of the mask. The sealant spray makes the mask a bit more water resistant and helps dirt and debris slide off the mask easier. It also keeps the paint from chipping more. It's not completely necessary, but I would recommend it.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR2K8T3CH3dIVBMskfBrt9McFiUHUo9cN4gxizcOTQg54P1Tbz-ec2Bvl0FQBiVQ77Kf5Xg0bXgvB5LuQzO2k-wVc-nKQaUYVFD8h2ANyKZVrlbuNHTGhFnmIWsFww6XTXIWxFJnhqef8/s1600/Step+7.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 327px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR2K8T3CH3dIVBMskfBrt9McFiUHUo9cN4gxizcOTQg54P1Tbz-ec2Bvl0FQBiVQ77Kf5Xg0bXgvB5LuQzO2k-wVc-nKQaUYVFD8h2ANyKZVrlbuNHTGhFnmIWsFww6XTXIWxFJnhqef8/s400/Step+7.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617264287524428930" /></a><br /><br />And blammo<br />There's your nice fancy Majora's Mask.<br />Go hang it in your room or something<br /><br />For more information on purchasing jewelery and other props in my tutorials, requesting a custom item, or an idea for a new tutorial, feel free to email me at <span style="font-weight:bold;">Kanti-Kane@hotmail.com</span> (:Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-72527140224980775032011-06-12T01:48:00.001-07:002011-07-08T11:01:49.838-07:00Latex Mold and Resin Casting Tutorial<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHzuut9ajBUPMy146o0hQNumEKJ3DnRyCSTKilRHpCMjZdi8WfGUtyLIrDTdBRsQcyNawTPPn0PlIc6VARL6QNRnkGAc-afYk_lKrx88c6kKLqJGwMbi8OmTPK-fbfqcaybryvbcEegYA/s1600/Intro.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 272px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHzuut9ajBUPMy146o0hQNumEKJ3DnRyCSTKilRHpCMjZdi8WfGUtyLIrDTdBRsQcyNawTPPn0PlIc6VARL6QNRnkGAc-afYk_lKrx88c6kKLqJGwMbi8OmTPK-fbfqcaybryvbcEegYA/s400/Intro.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5627039425014225394" /></a><br /><br />Sometimes, you can't always find the right kind of gems to add to a very specific and unique piece of jewelery available pre-made at your local stores. In such a case, you could always cast your own from clear craft resin. In Ganon's case, he has many pieces of jewelery that all have their own different sizes of gems. The problem with purchasing seperate gems at a craft store may mean that you could get many jewels with different sizes, colors, or styles. Sometimes, it can make your costume look a bit tacky. In this tutorial, I'll show you how to make your very own custom gems to fit perfectly into your jewelery.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn4pUj-j87LLJMooIqL2IjIiELeyAmK-kM0b4AuCuTE8KUdcpnO6Bn7_hnkqIHijKHw3vjXU960jVNAskvSZ4NBcB_1FDzh9rWtewm1MbYEEpenWnh6UPr1qF_bfjudAIb5xeGYs2BHTI/s1600/Materials.png"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 238px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn4pUj-j87LLJMooIqL2IjIiELeyAmK-kM0b4AuCuTE8KUdcpnO6Bn7_hnkqIHijKHw3vjXU960jVNAskvSZ4NBcB_1FDzh9rWtewm1MbYEEpenWnh6UPr1qF_bfjudAIb5xeGYs2BHTI/s320/Materials.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5627042354033839122" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />Materials:</span><br />- Liquid latex <br />- Clear craft resin <br />- Resin mixing cup<br />- Super sculpey <br />- Plaster<br />- Paperclay <br />- Acrylic paints or *glass paint*<br />- Foam brush<br />- Baby powder<br />- Respirator* <br />- Foil<br /><br />Total Cost Estimate: $60<br />(based off what I had to buy)<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Currently selling for: $40</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Project Duration Estimate:</span> 3 days<br /><br />Many of these materials can be found at your local craft store. Items such as the liquid latex may need to be purchased online.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Overview:</span><br />This tutorial explains how to create a very specific type of gem to fit a piece using a liquid latex mold. Depending on what type of latex you get and how much, the price will vary. The duration estimate is influenced on the dry times of both the liquid latex and the craft resin, as well as the paperclay. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">WARNINGS:<br />RESIN of ANY type is extremely dangerous when handled without following proper guidelines. Resin is not only unsafe to touch, but it has a very strong smell and it's vapors will cause very serious damage if inhaled. You MUST work in a well ventilated area AND wear a breathing respirator to filter the harmful airborne chemicals it releases. ALWAYS wear gloves when handling it. If it gets onto your clothing you MUST remove and dispose of the contaminated clothing piece. Do not attempt to use resin if you are under 18 years old. Please ask a parent for help.<br />LIQUID LATEX may or may not be a harmful substance because latex varies from person to person. Some people are allergic to it and cannot touch, handle, or even smell it, while others can come into contact with it and they will not develop rashes. You should always wear gloves when handling wet liquid latex, wear a respirator, and work in a well ventilated area. Since allergies can arise spontaneously, it's important that you take the extra step to prevent any unneccessary contact.<br />ALWAYS read the warning labels on products you are unfamiliar with.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Always make sure you read through the entire process before beginning to avoid mistakes and to get a general idea of how the project will progress.<br />Now, let's get started:</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQhg_p_yneDoi7N6n9DnDHYRVsqgvoF4wceh9wvCF-SgmmgcrGHOQavVORpkU2V7q5aCzrkIEXBbiXcPWmflvHpxN9Lu6wil-i8Y-jqUb_hHUhy0KKXnUS1ugQBOOjTqLBhj3wUGmgnNo/s1600/Step+1.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 235px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQhg_p_yneDoi7N6n9DnDHYRVsqgvoF4wceh9wvCF-SgmmgcrGHOQavVORpkU2V7q5aCzrkIEXBbiXcPWmflvHpxN9Lu6wil-i8Y-jqUb_hHUhy0KKXnUS1ugQBOOjTqLBhj3wUGmgnNo/s320/Step+1.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617252880220648866" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 1: Sculpting your piece</span><br />When it comes to creating your unique piece of jewelery, chances are, you'll need to create the "rim" or surrounding jewelery before you can get started on the gem. If it's a very custom piece of jewelery, the surrounding area around the gem may take a while to craft. If you already have a rim pre-made, you can skip this step. If not, to make it, take a piece of super sculpey and form it into the surrounding area. Since I've already covered how to make complex jewelery in a tutorial beforehand (<a href="http://kantikane.blogspot.com/2011/05/midnas-headpiece.html">you can find it here</a>), I'm not going to go into too much detail in this one. But for those of you who may be freaking out, it's alright. Just find a decent reference picture and sculpt it to the best of your ability. Use pencils, pens, or sculpting tools to make the very fine details, and remember to leave a space in it for the gem you will be installing later on. DON'T bake your jewelery yet! You want to be absolutely certain that your gem will fit perfectly inside, and alterations may need to be made to the rim later on depending on how the gem comes out.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimQBEWNspyWBl53c9l8ck4PQDQ_bTmOJDbBJtxngyFP5fvIVsOHx8Qvgf9zvmZ2-UNQsYCRxfyqud1ym7hqmE81Q5qXuSXowWoE369zQ9SxM1I_ee7OI1o4txyGhH7aAChItkAQ6N825Q/s1600/Step+2.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 298px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimQBEWNspyWBl53c9l8ck4PQDQ_bTmOJDbBJtxngyFP5fvIVsOHx8Qvgf9zvmZ2-UNQsYCRxfyqud1ym7hqmE81Q5qXuSXowWoE369zQ9SxM1I_ee7OI1o4txyGhH7aAChItkAQ6N825Q/s320/Step+2.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617252957805046802" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 2: Making your Master part</span><br />Once you have a basic idea on how you want your jewelery rim to look, take a pencil and trace the inside of the rim on a piece of paper. Lift the rim off the paper, and then retrace the shape in marker. This will help you see the line better. Take a bit of air-dry clay (I used paperclay) and form it into the shape you traced on the paper. This may take a while, so don't rush it. You'll need a good shape or else your gem may look a bit strange. Another thing, make sure you have the bottom of the piece laying down FLAT along the paper. This will be necessary for your mold to work since if the bottom is not larger than the top, you will not be able to remove the gem from the mold.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2796DeZfKggAv2S8cxxqAL7O47Be5StDjbgj9M22GsmU4LaRD98MyiEw1R4CsgIEu3aB8BMHt8Vc4tz4UCx2T5y0DrJIUKtpqK2yJJsn_lW9HfjbGUje3jlkaaur4cRD3mPvYiQ1A9To/s1600/Step+3.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 265px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2796DeZfKggAv2S8cxxqAL7O47Be5StDjbgj9M22GsmU4LaRD98MyiEw1R4CsgIEu3aB8BMHt8Vc4tz4UCx2T5y0DrJIUKtpqK2yJJsn_lW9HfjbGUje3jlkaaur4cRD3mPvYiQ1A9To/s320/Step+3.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617253063620858658" /></a> <br />When you've finished with the shape, round off the top of the clay into a desirable shape. Dipping your fingers in water usually helps smooth out the clay. Work it into a smooth shape, but don't press too hard or the bottom of the clay may expand outside the traced shape on the paper. If you can't get it completely smooth, don't worry. You can always sand the piece once it dries off. This clay piece will be known as your "master". It will be the original piece used to make your mold. Once done shaping it, allow it to dry completely. Paperclay usually dries completely overnight.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUrF4N2OZ7bSRqantnWgCNMyTaMio90WnSdMh2jrO99At7-nl57RRMwuLjdjGPz47ttqJPLaQnOGxkArF73Ut1FQbH6gYMi-vf5ctoGDsr9Bt2Z0lqCdpTfR6LSbrVLcL7i5q-OxNIyv4/s1600/Step+4.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 242px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUrF4N2OZ7bSRqantnWgCNMyTaMio90WnSdMh2jrO99At7-nl57RRMwuLjdjGPz47ttqJPLaQnOGxkArF73Ut1FQbH6gYMi-vf5ctoGDsr9Bt2Z0lqCdpTfR6LSbrVLcL7i5q-OxNIyv4/s320/Step+4.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617253246250487858" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 3: Coating with Latex</span><br />As mentioned in the warnings (which I hope you read), it's necessary for you to work with the latex in a highly ventilated area. Liquid latex releases ammonia as it dries, so not only does it smell gross, but if you breathe it in too much, you can actually become allergic to it (and trust me, being allergic to latex sucks). IF you're ALREADY allergic to latex, then you may need to purchase silicone instead. I personally know little about buying mold silicone, but on some websites they sell certain kinds that are used for mold making. In the case that you get silicone, take the same precautions you would take with the latex. Wear gloves, a respirator, etc.<br />When it comes to actually USING the latex, you're going to need a sponge brush, or really any disposable brush that you don't care for. Once liquid latex gets onto the brush, it will dry and you won't be able to use it again, so make sure you use a brush you don't care about. Sponge brushes are ideal because they're so cheap. <br />Anyway, to get started, lay out a piece of foil on a flat working surface. Place your master flat onto the foil and pour some liquid latex into a disposable cup. Dip your sponge brush into the latex and coat your master with a thin layer, and coat AROUND the master about an inch. This extra coat around the actual piece will make it easier to peel the latex off later on. Make sure your first coat has no air bubbles! The first coat is the coat that captures all of the details of your master, so you want it to be as clean and even as possible! To get rid of bubbles, blow on the latex gently. Once you've coated the latex onto the master, wait about an hour for it to dry. Make sure you complete each layer of latex within a day of the previous one. If not, the latex may not adhere to the following layer very well. This step requires a bit of patience and time, but it's vital to the outcome of your mold.<br />After about 7-10 coats of latex, the mold will be strong enough that it can hold features and withstand tearring as you remove it. Make sure it's dry, but DON'T peel it off just yet.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjfzBzn88Y6V9AGhEMCaPJtCA-4W0Ase_yJPiME07ZugxsvuAMAB88ou_D6z1e4cvY1VJf8izo3ojqNKhQ92j54Pk_DXQPu37NpGhSWTOuFguPZy4vwh6ENw8_HwF3y-HFOOSJ_uljLwQ/s1600/Step+5.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjfzBzn88Y6V9AGhEMCaPJtCA-4W0Ase_yJPiME07ZugxsvuAMAB88ou_D6z1e4cvY1VJf8izo3ojqNKhQ92j54Pk_DXQPu37NpGhSWTOuFguPZy4vwh6ENw8_HwF3y-HFOOSJ_uljLwQ/s320/Step+5.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617253326790576642" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 4: Making your mold</span><br />Once your liquid latex is ready, mix up some plaster. An ideal type of plaster is Plaster of Paris. It usually comes in very large buckets for only about $10. Mix it up into a seperate cup and smooth it onto the latex. I used a plastic cup to shape my mold into a small disc shape, but generally plaster of paris stays in place and won't melt all over the surface you're working with. As simple as that, just apply the plaster and wait for it to dry. Unlike latex, plaster usually dries pretty quickly.<br />If you're a loser and you used a cup like me, when the plaster dries you will find it difficult to shake the plaster out of your plastic cup. Simply take a knife or some scissors and cut it away. The end result is pretty nice, actually.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN50L8M2W-UA1VyVbenwY34lRW03QtMrfBtNvZuAgSw1oVfvA0HdF1ybxvDxzUNsDM-fT9OTgJKOdc7M78ni_wLSHdONzUxkYBocRWjGuJ7vHDbHRrdNQLuNuAVGm43Mrx4SCrNrjExmI/s1600/Step+6.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 234px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN50L8M2W-UA1VyVbenwY34lRW03QtMrfBtNvZuAgSw1oVfvA0HdF1ybxvDxzUNsDM-fT9OTgJKOdc7M78ni_wLSHdONzUxkYBocRWjGuJ7vHDbHRrdNQLuNuAVGm43Mrx4SCrNrjExmI/s320/Step+6.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617253417870693810" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 5: Disassembling the mold</span><br />Once your plaster is nice and dry, you can take your mold apart. First, peel the latex out of the plaster and then peel the latex layer off your master part. My latex gave me a hard time and I had to really tug on it, but it still held out alright. Just be careful around this part. Also, if you're clay is annoying like mine was, you might still have some clay residue on your latex piece. If so, don't worry. Simply wet a toothbrush and scrub the latex gently in a circular pattern. Once the clay gets wet enough, it should just melt off. Depending on the type of latex, it's important to dust it with baby powder as you remove it from the mold so it doesn't stick to itself. The latex I used didn't have much of a problem, but it's an easy step and you should do it just incase. Wasting latex and all the time waiting for it to dry sucks. First, get a paintbrush or makeup brush and use it to coat the latex generously with powder. As you begin to peel the latex, get your brush and dust more powder onto the inside of the mold as you remove it. Generally, you won't need a TON of powder, just a nice even coating will prevent it from sticking. After you're done, place the latex layer into the plaster mold and you're ready to begin!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_OUzc4JEyLSXobMQGTgioypeq18CANHVJfk3qJcl44g3a2YLngjrxSVK8sVCNzduMMzANJ-PovyAkr2_4Z0sULAiAu-lHQ46TD56pJMUZGooJ88N5cKUQAZxJQry-CEM4MULi_kKIuX0/s1600/Step+7.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_OUzc4JEyLSXobMQGTgioypeq18CANHVJfk3qJcl44g3a2YLngjrxSVK8sVCNzduMMzANJ-PovyAkr2_4Z0sULAiAu-lHQ46TD56pJMUZGooJ88N5cKUQAZxJQry-CEM4MULi_kKIuX0/s320/Step+7.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617347256566826722" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 6: Dying the resin and filling the mold</span><br />Now that you're done with your mold, you can begin casting your resin! WARNING: I cannot stress enough how dangerous resin can be. You MUST wear gloves and you MUST wear a respirator. Resin is NOT a toy.<br />Anyhow, though. Before we break out the resin, you'll need to figure out what color you'd like it to be. Placing color inside the resin is ideal, so that it can be that color inside and out. So if it gets scratched or damaged, the layer underneath won't be a different color. Since craft resin is clear, it's ideal for dying. It is also a bit pricier than normal resin, but sometimes it's a sacrifice that's necessary. Normal fiberglass resin is a tint of nasty piss yellow, so it's not exactly a flattering color. To dye the resin, it's very simple. I use acrylic paint, but you can really use anything. Mix the paints on a piece of paper to make sure you get the right ratio of colors for the color you want to make. If it's a single color, you can skip this step, since it's only one color lol.<br />Before we start mixing the colors, make sure you pour your resin into a resin mixing cup. These are the same thing you use to mix paint and plaster. Actually MEASURE out the resin, because it's necessary to know when it comes to adding the hardnener. Once you have that down, take a popsicle stick and get a little drop of your desired color and mix it into the RESIN only. If you add too much paint, your gem will be a dark solid color. If you want it partially opaque, then only a small amount of color is needed.<br />For those of you who splurged a little and got the glass paint, amazing. Glass paint is usually used for stained glass or window projects and is amazing for dying resin. Since it's opaque, the color spreads much nicer and more even than acrylics would. Also, you won't get those tiny specs of paint in the resin like you would using acrylics. I didn't use glass paint for my gems, but if you bought some, don't go crazy with it. You only need a little, so add just a drop or two into the resin and mix. If you feel you need some more, then add a bit more, but it's always better to start out with less and add more than to add too much.<br /> Now, for those who don't know much about resin, there's usually 2 parts. There's the actual resin, which comes in the big bottle or container and is thick like maple syrup, and then there's the hardener that usually comes in a much smaller tube or dropper and is very runny. Mix the color thoroughly into the resin so that it's even and then add the hardnener. Be sure to read the instructions on the resin to know how much hardener to add per resin measure. Mix it all up until it's even consistency and pour it into your mold.<br />Resin usually takes a full 24 hours to harden and cure and it's extremely necessary to wait!<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9VL8JzDlf9U1ngHMaTjiWwQ1e4zuIqDIR6Z5X8f2UuDtNDNTYDtw-kTEkVMzOK-AMJ1NzKWsr_xiWNSf2vo5zGntY-wC1-lSZEsSAKp_JSqnQ3DH-MGN2eERJH2Z0pcNjGo8XeySKus0/s1600/Step+8.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9VL8JzDlf9U1ngHMaTjiWwQ1e4zuIqDIR6Z5X8f2UuDtNDNTYDtw-kTEkVMzOK-AMJ1NzKWsr_xiWNSf2vo5zGntY-wC1-lSZEsSAKp_JSqnQ3DH-MGN2eERJH2Z0pcNjGo8XeySKus0/s320/Step+8.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5618132178716111362" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />Step 7: Fitting the gem into the rim</span><br />Now that your gem is nice and finished, you have to check how well it fits back into the rim. GOOD THING YOU DIDN'T BAKE THE CLAY! Simply slide the gem into the rim and see how well it fits. Chances are, you may need to press it down to make an indent in the rim so it fits EXACTLY. This is where the clay being unbaked is very nice. Once you make this indent, edit the jewelery around it so that it looks nice. Then, remove the gem, leaving it's imprint in the rim. Make sure you can easily remove and add the gem into the rim without messing it up, because we need to bake the rim without the gem in it. Now, I'm not sure if resin can withstand being baked very well, (I've never tried it, nor do I want to stick resin in my oven) so I would avoid that. Instead just let your nice little resin gem sit outside the oven and watch. Bake your rim to the according sculpey time and temperature (275º F is normal sculpey temp).<br />Once your rim is complete, don't stick the gem in just yet! You need to paint it first! Painting the rim now is best so you won't accidentally paint the gem. So paint it nice and wait for it to dry! Then FINALLY, the moment you've been waiting for. Hot glue the surrounding areas of the rim that will make contact with the gem and go on and stick the gem in there. Hold it firmly in place for a few seconds until it's secured.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo2EE9_8KMRO6C7ql3gZx4-Fe2EMFWWbS8eRjWeObA-UYWfZJSavCUkyCOfxS0hSzOWQEXnhg2onHHjNRagdH2aOXQqOulprrQnEfaj25JCvQJOaYaH5KEuI2fRpWvKYi1L2Wjn4uz-l0/s1600/Finished.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 297px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo2EE9_8KMRO6C7ql3gZx4-Fe2EMFWWbS8eRjWeObA-UYWfZJSavCUkyCOfxS0hSzOWQEXnhg2onHHjNRagdH2aOXQqOulprrQnEfaj25JCvQJOaYaH5KEuI2fRpWvKYi1L2Wjn4uz-l0/s320/Finished.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5622425604782412658" /></a><br />http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gif<br />AND THERE YOU HAVE IT!<br />A custom made piece of jewelery with a CUSTOM MADE GEM!! WOWZERS<br />The great part is, you can now make many many many more gems with your nice new mold!<br /><br />To see more of this finished costume, check it out <a href="http://www.cosplay.com/costume/366557/">here!</a><br /><br />For more information on purchasing jewelery and other props in my tutorials, requesting a custom item, or an idea for a new tutorial, feel free to email me at <span style="font-weight:bold;">Kanti-Kane@hotmail.com</span> (:Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-79744532022140333832011-05-29T20:44:00.000-07:002011-06-12T06:15:57.378-07:00Kanti has an Etsy<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.etsy.com/storque/media/articles/2009/04/3821-etsyday24.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 565px; height: 361px;" src="http://www.etsy.com/storque/media/articles/2009/04/3821-etsyday24.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />Just recently I created a shop on Etsy. <br />For those of you who may be wondering, etsy is a website for selling things online, but they have to fall into certain categories. The items you sell have to be home-made, vintage, or used for crafting. Something along those lines, don't quote me lol.<br /><br />They charge a 3% transaction fee and also charge $.20 per item you list. The items stay up for 4 months so it's pretty nice. Better than the 9% ebay charges on their transaction fee. Ebay does, however, have a special price you can pay per month to open a shop and sell as much as you like, but I definitely don't have much to sell lol.<br /><br />Either way, I would recommend it for anyone who wants to open up a shop and sell a few things they've made. But you should make an account either way for purchasing!<br />They have some pretty nice things on sale for very reasonable prices (:<br /><br />Anyway, <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/KantiKane?ref=pr_shop_more">click here to view my shop</a>!<br />I just want everyone to know that I will be selling MUCH more stuff in my shop in the future, so keep checking back~<br />I also am completely open to doing custom orders. Just shoot me up an email and let's talk about what you want (:Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-5504082971926391582011-05-24T21:42:00.000-07:002011-06-12T02:01:06.537-07:00Lightweight Horn Tutorial<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjigqusXri_vx_yygj78mT5pUW_H7OnpOgyZgNwRMJgXdiJC1BGcUSOR2iNQQxgawElpYdNzV41umvgWJpLhrgRr3ZPd7uhJy9s1jx_KO3sHb37Q4P7AMqQP_-cjzZnPYHOmNULCuhMAvk/s1600/Intro.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 243px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjigqusXri_vx_yygj78mT5pUW_H7OnpOgyZgNwRMJgXdiJC1BGcUSOR2iNQQxgawElpYdNzV41umvgWJpLhrgRr3ZPd7uhJy9s1jx_KO3sHb37Q4P7AMqQP_-cjzZnPYHOmNULCuhMAvk/s400/Intro.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610512389498021810" /></a><br />When making horns for a costume, sometimes they're limited in the size department because of weight complications. Making hollow horns isn't exactly my forte, but I have found something that's almost as good (:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgISAyZ5BbzLjRUzMoFpA1ERHq7VCAJeq4wJGXk687g9VIgy1xdDlCgjbt4L3osKYG4igC4_u0ZKHpg6JVlsITetsVccYV-tJSmk7OuS_eNU2h4zw6bdUpoqPy5YNtxw6DieZGM3fM0rnY/s1600/Materials.png"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 310px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgISAyZ5BbzLjRUzMoFpA1ERHq7VCAJeq4wJGXk687g9VIgy1xdDlCgjbt4L3osKYG4igC4_u0ZKHpg6JVlsITetsVccYV-tJSmk7OuS_eNU2h4zw6bdUpoqPy5YNtxw6DieZGM3fM0rnY/s320/Materials.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610512315739734850" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />Materials:</span><br />- Crayola Model Magic <br />- Elastic cord <br />- Acrylic paint <br />- Painter's tape <br />- Tin foil<br />- Long toothpick<br /><br />Total Cost Estimate: $20<br />(based off what I had to buy)<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Currently selling for: $20</span><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />Project Duration Estimate:</span> 2 days<br /><br />All of these materials can be purchased at your local arts and crafts store.<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />Overview:</span><br />This tutorial teaches how to make lightweight horns. These horns are a bit delicate, but they will not break if you're careful with them. They sit firmly on the head and have no major complications, but if they collide with an object hard enough, they will crack.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">WARNINGS:</span><br />All the materials used in this tutorial are safe!<br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Always make sure you read through the entire process before beginning to avoid mistakes and to get a general idea of how the project will progress.<br />Now, let's get started:</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIddbtbnUe30dqvP_2T__VfKTuA96MTsX0JRvF0ultXZ8BjNRmR8wfV9i7CrWtC3xM1p-DER4WZraCvkiLFPytNYgNi7aNbHYQgvMkeginiX8V-9AdOKIiqTkJUiJymwU9kpv1YfkoP_Q/s1600/Step+1.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 241px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIddbtbnUe30dqvP_2T__VfKTuA96MTsX0JRvF0ultXZ8BjNRmR8wfV9i7CrWtC3xM1p-DER4WZraCvkiLFPytNYgNi7aNbHYQgvMkeginiX8V-9AdOKIiqTkJUiJymwU9kpv1YfkoP_Q/s320/Step+1.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610512254885221234" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 1: Shaping the foil</span><br />Cut out two large sheets of foil. The length of the sheet should be proportional to how much foil you want in each horn, in other words, how big you want them to be. This is not final, as you can simply add more foil later on, but you want your first guess to be as accurate as possible, since adding more foil is a pain. Make sure both sheets are equal before you begin. Once you get the sheets, take each one and shape it into a straight triangle shape. Make sure the horns have the same thickness in the same areas (if you want horns with a thick base, make sure the base of BOTH horns looks thick and that they're both pretty equal). Next, depending on your design, shape the horns into curves, bends, or other things you would like to add. Do the shape as best you can to both horns, but don't worry if they're not completely even. Just so long as you have the basic shapes, you'll be fine.<br />If you're going for a more complicated design that has a strong curl or something along those lines, don't do one horn completely and then start the other. Instead, work on them both at the same time, making minor adjustments to each one. This way, the horns will be more similar.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzbFYWpFTnBPn2T95buDNAFbDNzk8bGR4LNcBLQiyZlEiH62eABY-RV4DmrD2M2DMDNZkeyOLtXO20eGu7VRispxLYct5U54j_8tzOip9tMhWhjb1qCnQrpnLIlv25SbiQ656SSyffqVo/s1600/Step+2.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 243px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzbFYWpFTnBPn2T95buDNAFbDNzk8bGR4LNcBLQiyZlEiH62eABY-RV4DmrD2M2DMDNZkeyOLtXO20eGu7VRispxLYct5U54j_8tzOip9tMhWhjb1qCnQrpnLIlv25SbiQ656SSyffqVo/s320/Step+2.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610512200351723026" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 2: Adding the model magic</span><br />Once your horns are in a shape you like, open your package of clay and immediately use a knife to cut it into 2 equal sections. This way, you will use the same amount of clay for both horns. Carefully begin covering the horn shape with clay. You don't want to press too hard or else the foil will poke through yet you don't want to press too lightly or the clay won't stick to the foil. A gentle press should do the trick. Make sure to get generous amounts of clay over every inch of the horn. The horns I made had just enough clay to cover them, so if you plan on making something larger, you may need another package. If this occurs, use all of the clay on one horn and buy another package later on. The model magic is air-dry and cannot be changed once it dries.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8W56-EFPXtarJvs0UtnuaPmCtfVj06vkNLSCRwQzzvjQlaQx_Ez_78-ih7KZU6OQp9ygPWuXlPo9bN0qoWDk6Ex1TksR9mJZs0RBu_0K0SZ6WBfLFonq1zxuyVK0lo-qg0A44v8dcf-E/s1600/Step+3.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8W56-EFPXtarJvs0UtnuaPmCtfVj06vkNLSCRwQzzvjQlaQx_Ez_78-ih7KZU6OQp9ygPWuXlPo9bN0qoWDk6Ex1TksR9mJZs0RBu_0K0SZ6WBfLFonq1zxuyVK0lo-qg0A44v8dcf-E/s320/Step+3.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610512035186171074" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 3: Adding features</span><br />Once all your clay is packed onto the horn nice and even, you can begin shaping the horn. To do this, wet your finger, a knife, or a toothpick and use it to make the shapes and features you desire. Remember that you only have a thin layer to work with, so don't make your indentations too deep. For my horns, I managed to make a decently deep line that ran up the horn. If you start to hit foil and it shows a bit, don't worry, once you paint the horns it will disguise any foil that may have managed to poke through.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXyPHGaeraHOStzXYm5vlEkhTFXf4evOMuJvmstUHrDzl_MXkiiPmYnK4eq1m71O5h2defDlsZ9cwXHujSSvJAqXJeKqW25Sv8W_ID5WVcdA6bKlQp58pTW2dsjpY-8_U92iji1NjMNqE/s1600/chart.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 306px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXyPHGaeraHOStzXYm5vlEkhTFXf4evOMuJvmstUHrDzl_MXkiiPmYnK4eq1m71O5h2defDlsZ9cwXHujSSvJAqXJeKqW25Sv8W_ID5WVcdA6bKlQp58pTW2dsjpY-8_U92iji1NjMNqE/s320/chart.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610747480089093170" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 4: Stringing the horns</span><br />Before you actually string your horns, we're going to prepare them. This step isn't necessarily stringing them, it's just poking a hole through so that you can later. For this step you're going to need a shish-ka-bob toothpick or other type of long, yet skinny object. Before you puncture the horns, draw a circle on a piece of paper that's roughly the size of the top of your head. Pretend this circle is your head from an above view. Label one side of the circle "front" and the opposite side "back" and then draw a straight line that crosses the circle exactly in the middle of these two points. These will indicate the front and back of your head. Place the horns on the circle in the angle that you would like them to sit on your head relative to the circle you drew and on top of the line that crosses the middle. Once you have positioned them how you would like them to look, puncture each horn with the toothpick using the line as your guide. It may take a couple tries, since the foil may interfere. Once you get it through, wiggle the stick a bit to open the hole a bit larger. This will be where you string your horns. <br />Once you're done and are satisfied with the holes, cover up any mistake holes you may have created and let the horns dry overnight. This clay does take a while to dry completely.<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />Step 5: Painting your horns</span><br />Painting the horns is self-explanatory. Just choose some colors and get at it. I personally prefer acrylic paints, but as far as I know, many types of paint can be used on this project. I would recommend the acrylics because they are fast drying, and this project requires several layers of paint. Since the horns are a bit delicate, the paint can be used as a type of "shell" to offer a bit more protection. It's not much, but it does help.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 6: Stringing the Horns</span><br />Once your horns are dryed up completely, you can feed the elastic cord through them. If you don't have elastic cord, you can tie a strand of string to the long toothpick you used to create the hole and feel it through. Use a hot-glue gun to seal the string in place.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Fe4rBnf1ZTaaXMRV_WxOyXDEZFDBQuDfj6gstTux3cgjRbzF2V1uy0yLnqm0XB75OQGJzhxjceybroY8gX6XIbqdHEsvFf6-KvWOEfHEeLR38QYlm9BkZDID3jKG4hvJRVfkGtVYQcs/s1600/Step+4.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 231px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Fe4rBnf1ZTaaXMRV_WxOyXDEZFDBQuDfj6gstTux3cgjRbzF2V1uy0yLnqm0XB75OQGJzhxjceybroY8gX6XIbqdHEsvFf6-KvWOEfHEeLR38QYlm9BkZDID3jKG4hvJRVfkGtVYQcs/s320/Step+4.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610512093804121778" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"> And there you have it</span><br />A nice lightweight pair of horns! They may not be the strongest, but they'll do the job. And for a cheap price as well (:<br /><br />If you're interested in seeing more about my Draenei costume, click <a href="http://www.cosplay.com/costume/359237/">here</a>!<br /><br />For more information on purchasing jewelery and other props in my tutorials, requesting a custom item, or an idea for a new tutorial, feel free to email me at <span style="font-weight:bold;">Kanti-Kane@hotmail.com</span> (:Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-86115565976910101532011-05-24T18:33:00.000-07:002011-06-12T02:01:21.520-07:00Paper Mache Mask Tutorial<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGVFB3k4Pe7REcV_3STxR0nNz2BAIq14Vt_A9KFD8eTeeFsdMr-BsLpgLuZyRwcI2eYmZ2IpKzyl9Mv4ii97_1RJujTM5IPLhM310lJ-31Qc9SexhVcHTYC_M6C6sq079fWOpSv0QrYKQ/s1600/Intro.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 217px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGVFB3k4Pe7REcV_3STxR0nNz2BAIq14Vt_A9KFD8eTeeFsdMr-BsLpgLuZyRwcI2eYmZ2IpKzyl9Mv4ii97_1RJujTM5IPLhM310lJ-31Qc9SexhVcHTYC_M6C6sq079fWOpSv0QrYKQ/s400/Intro.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610473177361061074" /></a><br />Masks are great additives to any costume. But in the Happy Mask Salesman's case, they're a necessity. With 10 masks on his pack, he's got a pretty distinct look, and with so many masks, having lightweight materials to work with is a wonderful plus. When making his costume, you can either purchase some mock masks to decorate his bag with, or you can make your own. It's a lot less hard than you think, I'm going to show you how.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrz5nd8c0-dsYmlEhFEAwA_YPVSPj-WxMf8sK_ispRvx-zYvWw5Sb6nZu-s-OiJ_84odbYdGtk6aPAsyETW8VP-G3MPRO5nTmTaidWpf9qQvph0w6Z0j6xpV5vYXVHs0u9W611-ShoJF8/s1600/Materials.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 233px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrz5nd8c0-dsYmlEhFEAwA_YPVSPj-WxMf8sK_ispRvx-zYvWw5Sb6nZu-s-OiJ_84odbYdGtk6aPAsyETW8VP-G3MPRO5nTmTaidWpf9qQvph0w6Z0j6xpV5vYXVHs0u9W611-ShoJF8/s400/Materials.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610473088704315602" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Materials:</span><br />- Wood Hardener <br />- Acrylic paints <br />- Sealant spray <br />- Foam head <br />- Celluclay <br />- Flour <br />- Elastic cord <br />- Water<br />- Salt<br />- Sharpie marker<br />- Scissors<br />- Newspaper<br />- Plastic wrap<br />- Large bucket<br />- Funnel<br /><br />Total Cost Estimate: $50.00<br />(based on what I had to buy)<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Currently selling for: $16.00 (5 or less) $13.00 (5 or more)</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Project Duration Estimate:</span> 4-5 days per mask<br /><br />Many of these materials can be purchased at nearby arts and crafts stores, even Walmart. The foam head can be purchased at many beauty stores.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Overview:</span><br />This is a long process that requires several hours in between steps to allow the materials time to dry. It's also very messy. It produces lightweight, yet durable masks that do NOT have eyeholes. I will, however, mention how to make them in the tutorial. Since the materials come in large quantities, I would recommend making more than one mask. Here, we will work with 2 kinds of paper mache: home-made newspaper strips and paper mache based clay. Make sure to read carefully and examine the pictures to make sure you know which one to use at which time.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">WARNINGS:<br />Chemicals used in this tutorial may be harmful when not used correctly. Wood hardener is a very dangerous and flammable chemical. The fumes it gives off are harmful if inhaled. Always work in highly ventilated areas and wear gloves and eye protection when dealing with it while it is wet! If you're under 16, get an adult's help before you continue. Remember to ALWAYS read the warning labels on products you are unfamiliar with.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Always make sure you read through the entire process before beginning to avoid mistakes and get a general idea of how the project will progress.<br />Now let's make get started:</span><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZpLbVTwgfBIpwKROMbGgGk1-NUwvTtEdPX-BcVFGFHUlfNnwsOEt3Euhj_s0G1z1BAxgXJFDW35h1ykBlhhcERfQEwmTrG957wS9Jz6OJCnSrRmcaF2x23fps8yocxt5FHXlX4AhX484/s1600/Step+1.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 210px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZpLbVTwgfBIpwKROMbGgGk1-NUwvTtEdPX-BcVFGFHUlfNnwsOEt3Euhj_s0G1z1BAxgXJFDW35h1ykBlhhcERfQEwmTrG957wS9Jz6OJCnSrRmcaF2x23fps8yocxt5FHXlX4AhX484/s320/Step+1.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610472930985131842" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 1: Making the paper mache</span><br />As mentioned earlier, we will be working with 2 types of paper mache. This first kind is the newspaper strip kind. For this, we will use a basic paper mache recipe. Based on how many masks you are making, you will use certain amounts of flour and water. <br />For 5 Masks, I used the following recipe:<br />- 2 cups of flour<br />- 2 cups of water<br />- tablespoon of salt<br />I'm not sure why you add the tablespoon of salt.. I think it may have to do with altering the mache's drying properties. Either way, I added it just incase. <br />(Another thing is sometimes people use elmers glue in place of flour. I find this mixture to be a bit more unpleasant. It's a bit heavier, a LOT stickier, and it's impossible for me to use without tearing the newspaper strands. Personally, I prefer flour.)<br />If you don't plan on making 5 masks, you can alter the recipe to whatever you want. Just make sure you have equal parts of water and flour.<br />Use your scissors to cut out several long strips of paper from the newspaper. I used a paper-cutter. It saved a lot of time and made the paper strips better.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrsiPetsRP57wtt6vCI0ssWds8XCNSa8Yrg4z7rJujhxL39_rkf7TC9bHYrEKkmBaOcBRkpZly-9H8ZVYiXsr7CB6GlDtVmF_oXgYEboVSZV3p1336N0pTNvpSu_XFi0-1WzF_6NDg9TA/s1600/Step+2.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 113px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrsiPetsRP57wtt6vCI0ssWds8XCNSa8Yrg4z7rJujhxL39_rkf7TC9bHYrEKkmBaOcBRkpZly-9H8ZVYiXsr7CB6GlDtVmF_oXgYEboVSZV3p1336N0pTNvpSu_XFi0-1WzF_6NDg9TA/s400/Step+2.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610472584116135362" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 2: Coating the Foam Head</span><br />Your foam head is going to see a lot of action and it's not going to be pretty. A VERY necessary thing you will need to do is cover the face with clear plastic cling wrap. This way, the paper mache will not stick to the mannequin head and it can stay nice and clean. Take a long sheet of plastic wrap and wrap it tightly around the head. Make sure it's VERY secure. Try to unwrinkle the plastic so that you can get maximum coverage. Next, lay your head facing upwards so the paper mache can begin. <br />There are many ways to do this, but I find the cleanest way is to use a paintbrush to apply some four mixture straight onto the head and then laying down strips of newspaper over the "paste". This allows you to keep your hands clean.<br />Another way of doing it is to just get everything dirty. Dip your hands in the paste and keep them constantly wet. Then use them to smooth the newspaper onto the mask. You HAVE to keep your hands wet however. If they are only semi-wet, the mixture will start to dry and make tearing the newspaper more likely.<br />Once you have applied 2 or 3 layers of newspaper over the head, lay it out to dry. The drying process really depends on when you do it. I like to work during the day so I can lay things out to dry in the sun. Then again, I live in Florida so the sun is always harsh. For me, dry time only took a couple hours, for you it may be different.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit6_IlOtWbjJTlh4akeqHWUtkfm-wsA0DbRIWMnvGESZ0lPMHLCRVe1b9M-hp2aVj2axai8FAZy8A0Ga07AHGWD1dM5KXiYrnj4waZ_iLEYo0OhtSCD-OcwF4YJkn7bAhzNnCHyhj1WBA/s1600/Step+3.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 235px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit6_IlOtWbjJTlh4akeqHWUtkfm-wsA0DbRIWMnvGESZ0lPMHLCRVe1b9M-hp2aVj2axai8FAZy8A0Ga07AHGWD1dM5KXiYrnj4waZ_iLEYo0OhtSCD-OcwF4YJkn7bAhzNnCHyhj1WBA/s320/Step+3.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610472289445156034" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 3: Soaking in wood hardener</span><br />Once your paper mache mask is dried up, get ready to get it all nice and wet again lol. THIS IS THE MOST DANGEROUS STEP!!! Well, it's not so bad. But you do need to be careful and take necessary precautions. As mentioned in the warnings section, always work with chemicals with very strong smells and fumes in highly ventilated areas. Outside is ideal, especially since it can dry outside and you won't ruin any fancy furniture or carpet inside. This step is a bit tricky. Since we only want to soak the mask in the wood hardener, we will need the large bucket and funnel. Place your mask (or masks, this can be done with multiple ones) inside the large bucket. If multiple masks are being used, stack them on top of each other. Hold them inside the bucket. Pour the wood hardener over the masks and inside the crevices that are created from them being stacked together. Turn each one over and make sure the hardener has gotten every little section wet. Place them at the bottom of the bucket and pull each one out individually, gently shaking off any excess hardener into the bucket. Once this process is done with all the masks and there is nothing but hardener left in the bucket, place the funnel on top of the wood hardener's original bottle and pour the excess liquid from the bucket back inside the container. This way, you can reuse it again. Lay the masks out to dry yet again.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNwJKnz0jL5k8Sf-MoWlSUQ-2-_ielZR4_LdtQesnR_DmnMkMa9Fg-MVKxu7EyANYtQfQMAoDOhyzn8p9HGaudrEhkLJ_6GFWwPBon5rf_Uen-BW16V-oX_JSOSBe0yR3q9dERVTypacg/s1600/Step+4.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 303px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNwJKnz0jL5k8Sf-MoWlSUQ-2-_ielZR4_LdtQesnR_DmnMkMa9Fg-MVKxu7EyANYtQfQMAoDOhyzn8p9HGaudrEhkLJ_6GFWwPBon5rf_Uen-BW16V-oX_JSOSBe0yR3q9dERVTypacg/s320/Step+4.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610472215424283058" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 4: A second coating of paper mache</span><br />Once the mask is nice and dry, use your scissors to clip off any extra dangling pieces of newspaper on the mask's edges. You'll notice that because of the wood hardener, the mask is now extremely tough and thick. This will help it hold it's shape and prevent from shattering when dropped. But most importantly, it will help us add MORE PAPER MACHE!!! That's right. Even more. But this step will give our mask a more realistic look. In this step we will add some more paper mache around the mask, and then we will curl the edges around the back of the mask. This gives the illusion that we have a thick mask rather than just a stack of paper. Usually after the wood hardener, the mask is strong enough to hold its shape through all the extra mache, but don't go overboard. No more than 2 extra coats is necessary. Once you're finished, lay the mask out to dry yet again.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6R9OM9W28fHll3p-9RvngGzcCcrCMj8vNr-Qg0Ia1GYlbaJpM-UZ33U-3ykHOYZBUqNYGWDH4KVlM_BeD5Zl8akyk9Iz7Aur-seFcSyKh0s7mf4kXFTcaya345ulH6aMzr5ixEkBOXss/s1600/Step+5.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 285px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6R9OM9W28fHll3p-9RvngGzcCcrCMj8vNr-Qg0Ia1GYlbaJpM-UZ33U-3ykHOYZBUqNYGWDH4KVlM_BeD5Zl8akyk9Iz7Aur-seFcSyKh0s7mf4kXFTcaya345ulH6aMzr5ixEkBOXss/s320/Step+5.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610472158544405058" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 5: Drawing on your design</span><br />Now that your mask is dry for the 50th time, it's time to draw the basic design onto the surface. With a pencil, draw out your design lightly, making sure that both sides of the face are proportional. Once you get a pretty good idea, trace over it with the sharpie. This step is to outline where you will be elevating the clay in order to create 3D structures in the masks. Unless you choose to skip the final claying step, you will not be seeing this sketch again, so don't get crazy and make it BEAUTIFUL and perfect. You're only using it to help you position clay. If you're doing the Happy Mask Salesman masks as I am, finding a good reference picture for his masks is very difficult. You may need to play the game and try to look at him for some masks. Overall, I was able to find a few decent pictures on deviantart and zeldawiki.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Optional Step: Adding the eyeholes</span><br />If you want to add eyeholes in your mask, now may be the best time. I didn't add any on my masks since they were being attached to a backpack and I wanted to make them as close to the game as I could. Sometimes eyeholes can be disguised into the mask if done clever enough. Since our mask is still mostly made of paper mache, we can still poke a decent hole and since you've just finished drawing your design on the mask, you have an idea of where the eyes should be. Depending on the mask's shape, you may or may not be able to poke the eyeholes into the anatomically correct areas. What this means, is sometimes the mask's nose or eyelids may be where your eyes will be. To find out where you should poke the holes, try your mask on. Chances are, the foam head's shape should have created a distinct imprint of where your nose and forehead should go in the mask. Since our mask still has newspaper everywhere, use it to your advantage. When putting the mask on, look directly in front of you and memorize the section of newspaper your eyes come close to contact with. Then, mark the area with a small dot with a sharpie. If you have one available, use a power drill with the smallest needle setting to drill holes into the mask where you have placed your dots. If you don't have a power drill, you could use an exacto knife or a nail and hammer, but just avoid scissors. You only want a very small hole so it's not too noticeable.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigzxvQvvuEb1S3bmePwTlUEFLR59M6cBFWO8Yw-vOXQw5PblhYM6uVC_2hGOoPcSlm8TEth7CjZJYY1lh99XrEMM-BjwuqX1qQPBnqlyEch_N2yqY3d-j3Hu5n2mRjPbRNlG_ZkuVuINg/s1600/Step+6.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 254px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigzxvQvvuEb1S3bmePwTlUEFLR59M6cBFWO8Yw-vOXQw5PblhYM6uVC_2hGOoPcSlm8TEth7CjZJYY1lh99XrEMM-BjwuqX1qQPBnqlyEch_N2yqY3d-j3Hu5n2mRjPbRNlG_ZkuVuINg/s320/Step+6.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610472079959066770" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 6: Adding the Celluclay</span><br />Now finally, for the clay. Celluclay is a paper mache based clay so it has little pieces of paper mixed into the contents. In the box, it brings a pamphlet that says what ratio of water to add to the clay, but it was annoying to try and figure out so I just kept adding water until it was workable. Since the clay will dry in small quantities, it will usually need more water to be worked with either way, so adding more water isn't a big deal. Using the sketch as before, you're going to add clay to the mask. For my masks, I either added extra clay to the eyes or added none, to clearly mark them. Other features such as noses, lips, eyebrows, pupils, beaks, outlines, or anything that helps you determine where to paint should be elevated in some way. Another thing you will use the clay for is to give the mask texture. You should cover the entire mask with clay to hide any imperfections in the newspaper. Just remember not to cover the eyeholes if you made them! You can cover the relative area with clay and then poke a toothpick through the hole to clear any clay that may have gotten in there. When your entire mask is covered, dip your hands in some water and smooth the celluclay out. It is pretty lumpy, so it may be a bit difficult, but the lumpiness isn't hindering in any way. Once painted, it looks fine. You may sand it down if it bothers you, it's just a bit time consuming. Once you're pleased with the features, lay it out to dry. THIS time though, it will take the longest. The clay usually takes about 4-5 hours to dry out, so I would leave it overnight just to be sure.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPwzuGBu_4jZElVV2WjJ7mkIRyVH9v3VrAgjSB38Oe5HIUyvXqT_KHJMsrqIcGcTlckEMN7GL9SJOTf1jokq8HkYAAoK923krlqYFGLGbq2PlTxxgpB9WDzyt2KMO0NMO0JTPUS4_b6tc/s1600/Step+7.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 289px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPwzuGBu_4jZElVV2WjJ7mkIRyVH9v3VrAgjSB38Oe5HIUyvXqT_KHJMsrqIcGcTlckEMN7GL9SJOTf1jokq8HkYAAoK923krlqYFGLGbq2PlTxxgpB9WDzyt2KMO0NMO0JTPUS4_b6tc/s320/Step+7.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610471966409742834" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 7: Painting the mask</span><br />Now that your mask is basically at it's final stage, all that's left to do is paint it and seal it. Depending on the types of masks that you're making, you may be better off buying a kit of paint that comes with small amounts of different colored paints rather than a large tube for each individual size. Again, I like acrylic paints, so that's what I used. I would NOT recommend spray paint or watercolors. Watercolors are too light and won't cover well enough, and well.. Unless you have some sort of stencil, spraypaint will be useless. Paint your designs carefully on the mask, following the outlines you gave yourself in the clay, or simply by referring to your reference pictures. Don't fret if you mess up: just let it dry and paint right over it :') <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 8: Sealing your mask</span><br />And with your mask painted it's time to seal it! Using your paint sealant, give the mask a quick coating. Make sure you do it outside, the stuff smells pretty strong and it can make your floors slippery and shiny. This step is not completely necessary, but I would recommend the heck out of it. This coat prevents any major chipping of the paint, including when you drop it or if it gets rained on. It also helps clean the masks easier if mud or soot gets onto them.<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />Step 9: Stringing your mask</span><br />And a quickie final step. Stringing the masks is very simple. Take your stretchy cord and cut a piece that fits just across the inside of the mask. Use hot glue to glue one side on at a time to the inside of the mask. I don't/didn't want to poke holes into my mask for the strings, so I just glued them on, but it's your preference.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKBpkbvqXQBm33CatJbzh0orEKko_WEIPk82-noUpPCOcO9_fBo_yY83rceChBcbivBzuTBVybE-ndQnhs0xxnrFaYhSw6741c0bpwXBtkwL2sOenKxSDEl3rwala279NrldFx2TSbOV0/s1600/All+masks2.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 322px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKBpkbvqXQBm33CatJbzh0orEKko_WEIPk82-noUpPCOcO9_fBo_yY83rceChBcbivBzuTBVybE-ndQnhs0xxnrFaYhSw6741c0bpwXBtkwL2sOenKxSDEl3rwala279NrldFx2TSbOV0/s400/All+masks2.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5613736404728333106" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />AND there you go~</span><br />A nice home-made lightweight mask that can withstand a beating (literally, I punched one in the face and it looked the same afterward lol)<br /><br />For more information on this costume click <a href="http://www.cosplay.com/costume/371689/">here</a>!<br /><br />For more information on purchasing jewelery and other props in my tutorials, requesting a custom item, or an idea for a new tutorial, feel free to email me at <span style="font-weight:bold;">Kanti-Kane@hotmail.com</span> (:Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-44029954505391364272011-05-24T14:18:00.000-07:002011-06-12T02:00:50.406-07:00Complex Jewelery Tutorial<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mEhfhkvW7GFd8mHswg4Md4OdFcMM2XAwDLTotew0wBZW_Q9TLOALAG7xY3TJEh-7VJVMbBe8EKJbewNIalEb8OuJJxnzX-Enul2g_-HnZfmhkPBMmlL6uzvg7OaL2QbBURbqloz_Oc8/s1600/Intro.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 334px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mEhfhkvW7GFd8mHswg4Md4OdFcMM2XAwDLTotew0wBZW_Q9TLOALAG7xY3TJEh-7VJVMbBe8EKJbewNIalEb8OuJJxnzX-Enul2g_-HnZfmhkPBMmlL6uzvg7OaL2QbBURbqloz_Oc8/s400/Intro.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610404174833321442" /></a><br /><br />When it comes to making a costume, jewelery can be a very tedious thing to deal with. With some characters, the jewelery may be simple and the exact or a similar piece can be bought at a nearby store. However, with some characters, the jewelery may be very complex and almost impossible to find locally or even online. This is especially true with Midna's adornments. The complex nature of their design makes them very unique and very difficult to replace with standard objects or common jewelery. BUT they can be easily crafted, and I'll show you how.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5aKIGGW8dPu0Sl8QocoYUjrhEX4fvbcJaNrR4qWXzVDyY2cfrFgtzrDoaRVGAYbimx15Eryl1lnsddc1MykUE7aVil4Ox50BjU0B8RBvhbzaEzXV5UxbMicUE2p_YFtTrX2w-45cm5io/s1600/Materials.png"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5aKIGGW8dPu0Sl8QocoYUjrhEX4fvbcJaNrR4qWXzVDyY2cfrFgtzrDoaRVGAYbimx15Eryl1lnsddc1MykUE7aVil4Ox50BjU0B8RBvhbzaEzXV5UxbMicUE2p_YFtTrX2w-45cm5io/s320/Materials.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610493300380605778" /></a> <span style="font-weight:bold;">Materials:</span><br />- Super sculpey <br />- Acrylic paint <br />- Bag of plastic gems <br />- Reference picture<br />- Paper and pencil<br />- Knife and toothpick<br />- Chain-link necklace <br />- Needle tip pliers<br />- An oven<br /><br />Total Cost Estimate: $25.00<br />(based on what I had to buy)<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Currently selling for: $23.00</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Project Duration Estimate:</span> 4-5 hours<br /><br />Many of these materials can be purchased at nearby arts and crafts stores, even Walmart.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Overview:</span><br />This project makes a durable, lightweight, and attractive looking headpiece/accessory. The super sculpey I used for it came in a large box that comes with a good amount of clay. If you are interested in making more pieces, you may want to purchase this box. If not, most craft stores sell air-dry sculpey that comes in very small $1 portions. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">WARNINGS:</span><br />No harmful chemicals or materials will be used throughout this tutorial. Just remember to be careful when handling pliers. Metal can be uncooperative.<br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Always make sure you read through the entire process before beginning to avoid mistakes and to get a general idea of how the project will progress.<br />Now, let's get started:</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga7fpbS_a88kl_BzAsCMfDBJcVuiEGOG0iRbBD4eDoQ3VPDjdu1tufcsuwC5YdEw8NyO8By00_Kgj8NqcBowtFzGAZbGK0pCPnSWrA5-SYnXp-bVM8NswCY-rJK25MkUHQUNTCwOBtLH0/s1600/Step+1.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 304px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga7fpbS_a88kl_BzAsCMfDBJcVuiEGOG0iRbBD4eDoQ3VPDjdu1tufcsuwC5YdEw8NyO8By00_Kgj8NqcBowtFzGAZbGK0pCPnSWrA5-SYnXp-bVM8NswCY-rJK25MkUHQUNTCwOBtLH0/s320/Step+1.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610411122913603426" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 1: Finding a reference picture</span><br />Find a reference picture of your object online or in a magazine. Make sure the picture shows significant detail of the piece you want to construct, so you can make it as accurately as possible. Depending on the complexity of the piece, you may need multiple pictures from different angles. For our piece, we can get pretty decent results from using only one picture, but for larger objects, you may or may not need multiple pictures. Another thing, sometimes official art appears different from ingame pictures. So if two pictures contradict each other, you may need to either decide which one to use, or make a combination of the two.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 2: Sketching/printing a sculpting outline</span><br />Take your paper and pencil (or pen if you're feeling adventurous) and sketch out a life-sized model of the object as best you can. If you can find a silhouette of the object online, print it out! This may be rare, but if you can manage to find one, then you can skip drawing it. Just don't forget that you still need to make sure you print it out with the proper size ratio. Once drawn/printed, compare the picture to your forehead and see if it is appropriately sized. If it runs past your nose, it is too big.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVw6lQPWF0TjPw5xT0BBnnA18jYIJ7qqa_NDUwKaD70iLwcqMMG3wd6L7XbToXwBwA5zoyAgDIdFFVIuM95dK4skY1NU_rurPrv2KPGS6DFNdSK0yuGxv_G6K9ETdr1cM_MgsUI8wMAnA/s1600/Step+2.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 244px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVw6lQPWF0TjPw5xT0BBnnA18jYIJ7qqa_NDUwKaD70iLwcqMMG3wd6L7XbToXwBwA5zoyAgDIdFFVIuM95dK4skY1NU_rurPrv2KPGS6DFNdSK0yuGxv_G6K9ETdr1cM_MgsUI8wMAnA/s320/Step+2.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610411234697344674" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 3: Distributing the clay</span><br />Take your super sculpey and form it into a very small ball. Depeding on the size of the prop you plan on making, you may need more or less clay, however, for the headpiece we are making, a very small amount of clay will be used. I usually separate the clay from the box so I don't have to mess with it too much and so I don't have to constantly tear new pieces of clay from the larger sections. From your ball of clay, use a knife to cut out equal smaller sections of clay to work with. For the next step, we will be making long, thin strands of clay, so it's nice to try and make the pieces similar. If this all sounds confusing, don't worry. You can skip it. It's just an overview to make sure your necklace comes out even and equal amounts of clay were used for each section.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1vljN8jxQXdTao9QxUsvmaao8PVn4P4OezNN15H9QrwXa7FuOXL5cd-qxkwXERVi0Z6AemIUBSDETQiEvx3CkGPLarA2M5Y5tG7bhrWzMzU4_w_rfAJ7C-hEmsSXia3XvtCzTka7mAo/s1600/Step+3.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 256px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1vljN8jxQXdTao9QxUsvmaao8PVn4P4OezNN15H9QrwXa7FuOXL5cd-qxkwXERVi0Z6AemIUBSDETQiEvx3CkGPLarA2M5Y5tG7bhrWzMzU4_w_rfAJ7C-hEmsSXia3XvtCzTka7mAo/s320/Step+3.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610411484358451394" /></a> <span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 4: Creating the shape</span><br />Once you have the small (hopefully equal) pieces of clay to work with, begin rolling the clay into very thin snakey shapes. When I say thin, I mean thin. Remember, this piece has to fit on your forehead. If the strands are too thick, your piece will be too chunky and may possibly run past your nose. Once you've made the thin strands of clay, put them directly on the outline you made/printed. Make sure they fit nicely into the space you've given yourself to work with. Another small detail- DON'T FORGET to add a small "bridge" in the center of the piece to attach the gem to. It can't just float on nothing, after all. <br />This is the most tedious and difficult step and will take time, so don't rush yourself or it won't come out as nicely as it could! When you feel bored or bothered with working on the piece, take a break and come back to it later. Working on the same piece for a long time will make you want to hurry up and get it done sooner, which could lead to messy results.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 5: Small details</span><br />Use a knife, pen, toothpick, or other object you have laying around to aid you in the detailed work. For this particular headpiece, there are very thin lines running horizontally down the jewelery and small indentations in certain areas of the piece. The two bird-looking heads towards the top of the ornament need eyes and beaks, and there are small connecting loops that are used later for stringing. Use a toothpick for the very fine details, and a knife for smoothing it over and collecting any extra "debris" you may have kicked up with the toothpick. Remember to touch up the shape by adding sharp details. Once you are satisfied with how it looks, you can proceed to the next step. Just be completely sure you like what you see! Once you bake the object, you can't add anything else.<br />REMEMBER: to poke holes through the "chain connecting" areas, because we will actually be using them to string!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgESUcx6ML6xQMzN_gFWuznHzSIvd-QD4nCBgXtLpxZIxpeCGchncK66wUhn8j0cUtSy_NdaRoJBzgnQoI9j2EDPtkO9dQZ9tPD_E7YlgQef6KO17u_TV4AZHisk3qFKLowIDN3GMI2G2M/s1600/Step+4.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 237px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgESUcx6ML6xQMzN_gFWuznHzSIvd-QD4nCBgXtLpxZIxpeCGchncK66wUhn8j0cUtSy_NdaRoJBzgnQoI9j2EDPtkO9dQZ9tPD_E7YlgQef6KO17u_TV4AZHisk3qFKLowIDN3GMI2G2M/s320/Step+4.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610412231162486162" /></a> <br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 6: Baking the clay</span><br />Once you're pleased with how your object looks, you're ready to bake it. On the box of super sculpey, there are instructions on how to bake the clay. They include what degree to bake it at and for how long, depending on the complexity and thickness. If you used a different kind of clay, you will have to adhere to the baking instructions on the box. Air-dry clay does not need to be baked and will dry overtime, same with paperclay. I wouldn't recommend these for jewelery, because they are often much more delicate.<br />Super sculpey bakes at 275º F (130º C) and this particular piece should only take about 15 minutes. Once it is done, remove it from the oven and let it sit for a good 10-15 minutes before handling. You can place it in the fridge to make it cool faster if you're in a hurry for some reason. <br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgltPW10d5sanHaQK6qy8ELUlItgg_hgbtCJkTxONcY9dDwDgUxIlp4M2dOnLKNKHpGuJ1WwLG63lb5b1j6B5jKN5R7y-E2_ZIb5EkxCpj1qjZL4OmPyVUmGnyN4x5dyQjns8sFC88F5Tw/s1600/Step+5.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 254px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgltPW10d5sanHaQK6qy8ELUlItgg_hgbtCJkTxONcY9dDwDgUxIlp4M2dOnLKNKHpGuJ1WwLG63lb5b1j6B5jKN5R7y-E2_ZIb5EkxCpj1qjZL4OmPyVUmGnyN4x5dyQjns8sFC88F5Tw/s320/Step+5.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610412370893279810" /></a> <br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 7: Painting</span><br />For painting the piece, you have several options. Acrylic paints are my personal favorite because they dry quickly and have vibrant colors. Not only that, but they are waterproof once dry on clay (that's right, I tested it). You can use oil-based or water-based paints if you wish, but I prefer acrylic because it's cheap and comes in many colors. For this piece, I actually mixed some paint I had lying around, but you can purchase metallic silvery colors to get the same effect. The entire piece was coated in a very light silver and I added a touch of black to the silver to make a much darker tone for highlighting certain areas of the headpiece (the bird-eyes and indents).<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 8: Attaching the gem</span><br />Now hopefully you created that "bridge" I was talking about before or attaching the gem will be a bit difficult. REMEMBER, you only attach the gem after you've baked the clay (so it won't melt in the oven) and painted the piece (so you don't get the gem dirty). Depending on the type of gem you purchased, attachment may require glue. Some gems that are meant to be attached to things have a sticky bottom and only need to have the paper peeled off before sticking, while others don't have this and need to be glued on. I used hot glue, to ensure that it won't fall off, but you can also use crazy glue. I would avoid elmer's glue, unless it's the industrial kind, because I don't think it's meant for clay.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Step 9: Stringing the piece</span><br />"Stringing" is a strange term. In this step, we will be adding the chain to the headpiece. For my chain, I used an old necklace I had lying around that was looking pretty ugly. I detached the charms from it and laid it on a table. Since we need to have the back parts in tact for attaching it to your head and sizing it properly, I instead attacked the front. Determine the middle of the chain and select a single chain link. Use the needle-tip pliers to deform the link and pry it open. Once open, you can separate the two sections of the necklace. Keep the chain link open and attached to the necklace. Repeat on the other side, grabbing the last link and prying it open in the same way. If done correctly, you should have a necklace that can still open and close in the back, but now on the front, it is detached and has an open chain link on either end. Sorry I don't have a picture, I forgot to take one, but I hope you can understand well enough. Anyway, once you have your links open, place the chain connecting loop of the clay piece in the center of the open chain link and use the pliers to clamp down on the link, forcing it to close around the clay loop. Chances are, the link does NOT close all the way, but that's fine. Just so long as you clamped the link closed tightly enough that it will dig itself into the loop, it will stay. Don't be afraid to use force either. The necklace should be pretty tough. Repeat to the other side.<br />If you didn't have a chain laying around, or just didn't want to use one, that is also fine. You may instead use a string (preferably silver or gray). Simply feed it through the loop and tie it around.<br />IF you forgot to make a hole through the loop to connect the chain to, don't sweat. You can simply hot-glue the chain/string to the headpiece. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJPnzDm8ikVfAa3P0g7p3DjFSA00oYeyOJZ8DrMSLIUf4GzuuN5tLyO5SzfX7rT5BHIe6s337iCjtmUdQ8x9NFbtul_516rMQy9TPY8ztybOLDXi-izAIwjsn0gznDdkHIbBDjYEZGlKg/s1600/Step+6.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJPnzDm8ikVfAa3P0g7p3DjFSA00oYeyOJZ8DrMSLIUf4GzuuN5tLyO5SzfX7rT5BHIe6s337iCjtmUdQ8x9NFbtul_516rMQy9TPY8ztybOLDXi-izAIwjsn0gznDdkHIbBDjYEZGlKg/s320/Step+6.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5610412490441927826" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">And there you have it~</span><br />A very nice home-made costume accessory! Now that you've done this, you can tackle anything. And look, you have a WHOLE lot more clay to spare :')<br /><br />For more information on purchasing jewelery and other props in my tutorials, requesting a custom item, or an idea for a new tutorial, feel free to email me at <span style="font-weight:bold;">Kanti-Kane@hotmail.com</span> (:Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6755033911750311037.post-66190861801086287362011-05-24T13:58:00.001-07:002012-04-30T11:55:10.597-07:00Mission Statement and Contact InformationHello everyone. My name is Kanti and this is my tutorial blog. I hope to accomplish great things in this blog and I hope to reach a large number of people with my work. But the most important thing of all to me is that I hope to inspire you to go above and beyond what I teach you here. When I teach you how to do something, I hope you can come up with a way to do it better. When I show you how to make something, I want you to come back and show me how to make it better. I want my website to become a center of questions and answers, where people can come with any sort of project and I will be able to tell them the best way to do it. Where people can speak with me and tell me about other methods or products I can use to improve or revise my tutorials.<br />
I want my blog to be more than a blog and I want myself to be more than just a teacher. I'd love to be everyone's friend and I'd love to be the person you go to when you have a project you just can't seem to start yourself on.<br />
<br />
To reach me, try one or more of the following methods: <br />
<br />
<b>Hotmail and MSN Messenger: </b><br />
Kanti-Kane@hotmail.com<br />
<i>My primary mode of contact. I strive to answer my email 5 or more times a day. I'm free to discuss tutorial questions, tutorial suggestions, custom orders, or anything else.</i><br />
<i>I try to log into MSN but it may be a longshot to try and speak to me using that. </i><br />
<br />
<b>Facebook</b><br />
Artist page: Search "Kanti Kane"<br />
<i>Like everyone else, I'm on facebook very often xD It's a great way to contact me but please don't use it for timely concerns because I delete the messages often.</i><b> </b> <br />
<br />
<b>Etsy:</b><br />
Kanti Kane<br />
<i>I check my etsy multiple times a day, so you may get a quicker reply from there depending on how busy I am. Here I try to discuss purchase information and custom orders.</i><br />
<br />
<b>Youtube</b><br />
KantiKane<br />
<i>Youtube is a nice way to contact me since I find myself listening to music on there often. I try to answer concerns regarding my videos on youtube but I'm available to discuss anything here as well.</i><br />
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<b>AIM:</b><br />
Kanti.Kane@aim.com<br />
<i>I don't use AIM too often, but it's a great place to try if you'd like a more extensive or personal conversation with me with more immediate replies. </i><br />
<br />
<b>Deviantart</b><br />
Kanti-Kane<br />
<i>I try to check my deviantart often, perhaps 3 times a day. I can be contacted through here though I don't recommend it since my inbox is filled with questions that I don't necessarially want to delete yet.</i><br />
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<br />Kantihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14704538884743841731noreply@blogger.com0